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Bandhavgarh
| INTRODUCTION:
BANDHAVGARH
Born To Be Wild
Wild life sanctuaries in India have been turning more specialist over the passing decades. But one of the most popular such specialist sanctuaries have been the tiger reserves. There is something about this majestic beast that fascinates you- holds you in thrall and thrills you to the core at the prospect of following its pug marks in lonely jungle trails. The Bandhavgarh National Park in Umaria district in Madhya Pradesh, amongst the Vindhya Hills, has been recently declared a reserve under the country's most successful conservation scheme- Tiger Project. This is where the princely state of Rewa had a hunting lodge and discovered the first white tiger in the wild.
Spread over 450sq kms, the Bandhavgarh Park is also home to the Chowsingha (four horned antelope), leopard, sloth bear, sambhar, muntjac, nilgai, chinkara, porcupine and a plethora of other denizens of the forest. Thick sal forestland is interspersed with bamboo, grasslands, shrubs and dazzling meadows cover the valley floors. The undulating terrain results in mighty hillocks covered in dense foliage and on the highest one is situated the Bandhavgarh Fort, said to be over 2,000 years old. A five-hour drive out of Khajuraho takes you through some highly interesting countryside. The Ken River en route is also home to a crocodile sanctuary, you then pass through Panna with its diamond mines( also famous for work on the Tiger Project), then on to Satna from where you branch off to the ridges of the Vindhyanchal and Bandhavgarh.
HOW TO GET THERE
The best way to get there is by road, preferably in your own car. Other than that, the way is a mixture of rail and road.
By Air
The nearest airport is at Khajuraho (210 kms). From Khajuraho takes roughly 5 hours to Bhandhavgarh.
By Rail:
There is no direct route. But the best train , from Delhi, is Utkal Express #8478
Nearest Railhead - Umaria (South Eastern Railway) (30 kms).Other major rail junction is Jabalpur which connects till Katni. From where it's a short way ahead to Umari by rail.
By Road:
Without your own vehicle, getting there can be tricky. From Jabalpur six daily buses (from 8am; 45min-1hr) leave here for Tala, 33km northeast on the main railway line and pick up a train to Katni where you can change for Umaria the nearest rail connection to the park.
Travelling by rented car from Khajuraho will cost upwards of Rs2000 for the round trip, plus an extra Rs350-450 for each night you stay.
GETTING AROUND
Getting around the park can be by a jeep or elephant. If one wants it all cover - an area of 168 square miles of the park a jeep will suit. Bookings a jeep can be made the Headquarters at the main gate. As many as six people can share a jeep, splitting the cost of Rs700 for a morning or afternoon session and guides are part of the deal.
For the more adventurous elephant rides are arranged at the park office or your hotel (Rs200 per hour, shared by a maximum of four people). At present elephant safaris stick to the northern perimeter of the park, but proposals to allow them to cover the whole park are being considered.
WHERE TO SHACK UP
Most of Bandhavgarh's new and established hotels, all of which are in Tala, cater for travellers on a higher budget, and offer "jungle-plan" prices - all-in deals including meals and jeep safaris.
If you wanna blow dough
Bandhavgarh Jungle Camp,
Umaria Road
One of the oldest resorts, with double-roomed tents, with hot showers and dressing rooms, in the gardens of the old Maharaja's lodge. Outdoor lunch between safaris, and dinner in the lodge.
Rs2200 and up.
Nature Heritage,
Rs1200-2200.
If you wanna live sensibly
Bandhavgarh Jungle Lodge,
close to the river; turn left off Umaria Road Residents eat set (Indian) meals in the pleasant garden.
Accommodation only Rs500-750
MPTDC White Tiger Forest Lodge,
Umaria Road, next to the barrier over the main road (Tel: 07653-65308).
Large complex with clean, cosy rooms, all with attached bath and hot water, and a restaurant. Rooms 17-21 are in bungalows overlooking the river, where elephants wash and tigers come to drink in the height of summer.
Rs350-750.
V Patel Jungle Resorts,
Resort whose four clean rooms have attached bath, hot water and a communal verandah. Open air restaurant.
Rs350-500
If you wanna be ral samrtass
Baghela,
Umaria Road
Small, simple budget option.
Rs150-225.
Tiger Lodge,
Umaria Road
Small and basic lodge opposite Tala's only dhaba. The rooms have fans, but bathrooms are shared.
Rs100-150.
WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK
There's a handful of mid-range hotels, and one budget lodge. The only option for eating outside your hotel is the friendly dhaba on the main road.
THINGS TO DO
The Park authorities can arrange jungle excursions, by jeep and elephant. There is an excellent chance of sighting the tiger of which there are about 30 in the reserve. If you're lucky you might even spot a leopard. There are about 150 species of birds in the Bandahavgarh forest and it's worth your while to take your binocs and Salim Ali's guide to Indian birds. The best vantagepoint is the crumbling fort but you need to get permission to climb up. This you can do at the Park office near the main gate. You need to get a jeep to reach you here. It'll take you about two hours to reach the top of the fort after a stiff climb-so be prepared- take your Bisleri water for sustenance. Take pictures of the elephants which have been reared here at feeding time and when cavorting in the river at bath time at noon.
The Bandhavgarh Jungle Lodge is just walking distance from the Park's main gate. Developed along the theme of an Indian village, there are 10 spacious twin bedded mud huts where you can spend your time in the jungle also. The meadow near the lodge attracts deer and bird life. The lodge can also arrange nature walks and village visits.
The Park also has a number of caves reputed to be ancient Buddhist monasteries. There's a 11th century statue of Vishnu sleeping on Shashnag. The Chandraganga River passes through the Park, which is also said to be its origin.
WHERE TO SHOP
Since this place has absolutely no shopping to offer, you'll definitely have some money left to reach home in one piece.
GENERAL INFORMATION
IMPORTANT CONTACTS:
Bandhavgarh National Park
White Tiger
Forest Lodge
Tel: 07653-65308
Jabalpur
Railway Station, Jabalpur.
Tel: 0761-322 111
Fax: 0761-321 490
Khajuraho
Chandella Cultural Centre, Khajuraho.
Tel: 07686-44051
Fax: 07686-42330
Tourist Office, Bus Stand, Khajuraho
Tel: 07686-44163
Madhya Pradesh State Tourism Development Corporation
Central Reservations Division
4th Floor, Gangotri, T.T.Nagar, Bhopal- 462 003
Tel: 0755-778383, 774340/42/43.
Fax: 0755-772384, 774289
MONEY MATTERS
You can either come here with a loaded wallet or with a prayer on your lips. (You guessed right - no banks or moneychangers here)
LIST OF HOSPITALS:
If you're unlucky enough to fall ill here, only the greatest doctor of all times can help you - GOD. (So take all the medicines and repellents that you can manage.)
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