AHMEDABAD

And Time Goes On

Standing on the banks of the Sabarmati River, the ancient city of Ahemdabad (often referred to as the Manchester of India) offers visitors an interesting documentation of its historical past and its contemporary commercial growth. The clamour of horns and belching buses at peak office hours are a pulsating vision of the new Ahemdabad, while the Sabarmati Ashram transports you back to the days of Mahatma Gandhi and the struggle for independence. Peel back another layer and see how the plethora of ancient monuments and mosques transport you to the days of the Sultan who founded the city in 1411.

HOW TO REACH

By Air:
Ahemdabad airport, 10km north of the city, has both international and domestic flights. Air India operates direct flights to the USA and UK.

List of airlines
Indian Airlines
Jetair
Air India
Gujarat Airways
Alliance Air
By Rail:
The railway station lies on the east at the tail end of Relief Rd and MG Rd. It has a computerised office.

List of Trains
Shatabdi
Ahmedabad-Janata Express
Gujarat Mail
Gujarat Express
Delhi Express
Cochin Express

By Road:
Excellent state and private bus services from the ST Bus Stand near the old city.

GETTING AROUND

Autorickshaws and local bus services are the cheapest modes of transport unless you want to hire a bike to traipse around the city. Buses have their destinations scripted in Gujarati and unless you know Gujarati, or have a friend who speaks Gujarati, it can be quite a tedious affair using them.

WHERE TO SHACK UP

If You Wanna Blow Dough
Holiday Inn, Khanpur Rd. Tel 079 5505505.
Has a compliment of 63 rooms. Rates range from Rs.4, 200 to Rs.8,500

If You Wannna' Live Sensibly
Hotel Nalanda, Mithakali 6 Roads. Tel 079 6426262
37 rooms. Rates vary from Rs.1,250 to Rs1, 800.

Ambassador Hotel, Khan Rd. Tel 079. 5502490.
31 rooms. Rates vary from Rs 300 to 700

If You Wanna' Be Really Smart Hotel Nataraj .Tel. 079 5506048 near Lal Darwaza off Relief Rd. Rates start from Rs 150
Hotel Ashiana, Ramanlal Sheth Rd. Rates vary from Rs 100 to Rs200

THINGS TO LOOK OUT FOR

If you don't want to leap into a sightseeing spree of the mosques and museums right away get the pulse of the city by wandering into the meandering bazars and residential areas. Islamic, Jain and Hindu cultural cross-currents have lent their might to this mushrooming commercial hub with an expansive hand- all headily visible in the city's architectural, entertainment and multi cuisine offerings.

When the Sultanate of capital of Gujarat was moved from Patan to the tiny Asawal village, under Sultan Ahmed Shah in 1411, the tiny settlement very quickly mushroomed into a growing township with artisans and traders flocking to the new city to capitalise their skills. By 1572 Ahmedabad was a jewel of a city with an enviable commercial success due to its flourishing textile trade. By now it was also a part of the rapidly expanding Mughal Empire. Having gone into decline after a horrific famine the city rose Phoenix- like once more, under the British, with its contemporary textile machinery and the development of the opium trade initiated by the new masters. Under the influence of Mahatma Gandhi fresh initiatives came into the textile trade and the city became an important power centre with his active participation in India's political affairs during British rule.

In your wanderings around the Manek Chowk area, where the jewellery merchants settle down to the serious business of dealing in gems and jewellery, you will stumble upon the tomb of the city's founder Ahmed Shah. Only men can enter the inner most chambers where the graves of the sultan, his son and grandson lie enshrouded. The mausoleum (Rani-ka Hazira) of one of the sultan's queen is also located in the rowdy bazaar. A series of streets lined with a cornucopia of brightly hued fabric shops and other bric-a-brac leads you to the Swaminarayan temple, which is dedicated to Vishnu and Laxmi.

An intriguing diversion amongst the city's cavalcade of historic monuments is the famous shaking minarets of Sidi Bashir's Mosque. The 21m high minarets are built on a base of flexible sandstone (to avoid damage during an earthquake) and during the days of the Raj two European visitors are known to have climbed on to the top floor of one of them and shaken it real hard, which set off the other minaret to start shaking in sympathy too. Entry is restricted so you won't get a chance to try this stunt.

The famous Jama Masjid, though a truly Islamic symbol, intriguingly enough is embellished with 260 supporting pillars covered with numerous Hindu carvings. In addition to this, near the sanctuary's main arch there's a large black slab which, is believed to be the base of a Jain idol inverted and buried, as a sign of Islamic supremacy.

Take time off to explore the fabulous wealth of Indian textiles at the Calico museum. That's not all- the museum also has a superb collection of furniture, temple artifacts and crafts from all over the country. It's one of the finest textile museums in the world.

Gandhi's Sabarmati Ashram, which used to be the nerve centre of Indian politics during India's struggle for independence, documents the life and times of Mahatma Gandhi. There's also a sound and light show in both English and Hindi at the Ashram.

Gujarat is also the base for various sites of the ancient Indus Valley Civilization. In Gujarat Rangpur, in Limdi Taluka of Ahemdabad district, was the first site, which was excavated after Independence. Lothal, the ancient mound located in Sargwala village in Dholka Taluka of Ahmedabad district (87km from Ahemdabad) is essentially a single culture site. It neatly represents Harappan Culture in all its manifestations and was discovered about 20 odd years ago. Contact Gujatrat Tourism for more details on a tour of the Indus Valley sites.

WHERE TO EAT & DRINK

Gujarati food can be quite an adventure, particularly for the northern palate. Go on- be adventurous and try a shudh Gujarati thali at one of the local restaurants. Anand Dining Hall on Salapose Rd. near Relief Rd. is a good bet as it's also cheap. At Bellur on Station Rd. you'll get good inexpensive South Indian food. But if you're missing you're hearty Punj food head out for Gopi Dining Hall on Pritamrai Rd- Arrive early to beat the queues.

WHERE TO SHOP

This is Textile City and most people will pick up silks (the famous Gujarati Patolas made by craftspeople of Patan), zari-embroidered confections from Surat or the famous block print work of Ahmedabad. There are also tie and dye beauties from Jamnagar and if you want to pick up the lovely mirror work stuff you can get it in the form of cholis, kurtas, -even bags and wall hangings. Great places to explore- Rani no Haziro, Manek Chowk and Dani Limda. Bhavnagar brass and wood chests are popular too and you can always pick up a miniature one as a keepsake. Check the emporium on Ashram Road. For jewellery and silver, pop into Ratanpole. There's a pavement market at Law Gardens where you can pick up some embroidered items from the artisans. Feeling flush in funds? Wander down the boutique encrusted C.G.Rd. A visit to the SEWA craft shop can be quite rewarding.


GENERAL INFORMATION
Tourist Office
Gujarat Tourism Office, H.K. House, near the Ashram Rd. Tel 658 9683.Opens 10.30am to 1.30pm - 2pm to 6pm

STD Code
079

Money Matters
State Bank of India has a branch near Lal Darwaza . Check out the Bank of Baroda on Relief Rd. or their other branch at Ashram Road. Bank of India has a branch in Khas Bazar.

Medical Matters
VS GENERAL Hospital is located on Ellis bridge. Tel 079 657 7621.Plenty of private practitioners and nursing homes scattered around the city. Chemists too.