Under the sweat and the grime, the dust and buzzing flies, Varanasi has a another mask. She reveals it to those who stop and peel it off slowly. Varanasi- the ancient town of Benaras, stands hard on the banks of the holy Ganga- and therein lies her redemption. For this venerable old city is one of the most important places for practicing Hindus-in life and in death…It is believed that if you are cremated by the Ganga at Varanasi, it releases the body from the endless cycle of rebirths. The waters of the Ganga here are held in awe and have the power to cleanse you of all your past sins- the flotsam and jetsam collected by the river on its journey to and through the city notwithstanding.

THINGS TO DO

The Ghats -Perch yourself along the ghats at dawn to welcome the new day. All around you, countless devotees pay obeisance to the river and the to the sun. Take a boat ride along the river and get sensational views of one of the most spectacular scenes of devotional pageantry on earth. Temple bells from thousands of shrines resound in the air, as thousands of pilgrims move into the swirling waters carrying ritual brass vessels, marigold garlands and oil lamps, from 100-odd ghats. Young men do calisthenics before leaping into the waters, ancient barbers tonsure the heads of some devotees, ash-smeared sadhus with coiled ropes of hair sit in a trance, women coyly slip saree-clad into the muddy waters, watch the crowds cheer on the winners at an impromptu wrestling match… Plenty of sensational shots for you camera to devour.

You may not want to be at the macabre scenes of the burning ghats, but they are an integral symbol of the city's ritualistic perambulations year in and year out over the centuries. But you must view the five most sacred ghats at Varanasi on your boat ride. The Asi, Dasaswanadh, Manikarnika, Panchjganga and Raj ghats are a must for all pilgrims visiting the city. They believe that those who bathe in each one consecutively, their prayers will be fulfilled.

When the rituals are complete wander down the crammed, medieval maze of lanes and by-lanes behind the ghats. Jammed with fakirs, ash-enshrouded mendicants and street urchins, shops selling the ingredients of ritual and prayers, bolts of shimmering silks and cotton fabric, temple bells and brass pots, incense and painted cows, they'll stun your senses. Take plenty of film with you and make sure your camera works…Vishwanath gully, which leads to the Golden Temple, is supposed to be the abode of Lord Shiva, and non-Hindus are not allowed to enter. Aurangzeb ravaged the original temple, but a Maratha queen Ahilya Bai reconstructed the shrine. The Durga Temple was gifts of a Bengal maharani- watch out for those monkeys. The Tulsi Manas Temple, close by is engraved with scenes and verses from the Rama Charit Manas. The Ramgarh Fort, where the ex-Maharaja still has a splendid apartment, is now a huge museum.

Culture Crossword- Varanasi has always been renowned as a cultural center and is best for taking in a concert for thumri and dadra. An important part of the city's culture is the rich heritage of silks and brocade fabric, intricately carved wooden toys and carpets.

Festivals- Be in town during Dushera and enjoy the fabulous glittering performances of the Ram Lila. It's a ten-day extravaganza of pageants, dance, music and ritual. Bring a blanket with you to enjoy the famous Draupad Mela, which can carry on till dawn, in late February.

The famous town of Sarnath, the famous Buddhist pilgrimage centre is just 10km from Varansi. It was the site of Buddha's first sermon after his enlightenment.

Shopping

Benaras silks and brocades are to die for. Just cadge some dough from the folks to indulge. There's some cheaper fabrics and sarees too- not just trousseau stuff. Check out the Chowk and Godowlia areas. You'll also find the famous pan, perfumes and walking sticks, Varnasi is famous for in the shops lining the bazaar. If you're into Indian classical music- the Benaras sitars are the best.

HOW TO REACH

By Air:

An airport bus (Rs25) connects with flights landing at Babatpur Airport, 22km northwest of the city and goes to the Indian Airlines office, via the Government of India tourist office, both in the Cantonment area. Taxis should charge around Rs200 for the same journey; look for official number plates sporting names such as ITDC and TCI, as you're liable to be overcharged.

List Of Airlines
Indian Airlines

By Road:

Most buses terminate in the vicinity of the station: the Cantonment Bus Stand tends to be used by services from Nepal and Gaya, while private operators and buses from Mirzapur and Chunar use the Pilikothi Bus Stand and another private bus stand is at Lahar Tara, 1km west of the railway station where buses arrive from Lucknow and Allahabad.

GETTING AROUND

Besides cycle and auto-rickshaws and an inadequate and over-crowded city bus system, with terminals at Lanka near BHU and Godaulia, shared auto-rickshaws or tempos are a cheap and efficient way of travelling certain routes such as from the railway station to Godaulia and to the Civil Court in the Cantonment. Bicycle rental is available around Lanka and Maldahiy

WHERE TO SHACK UP

If You Wanna' Blow Dough:
Clarks,
The Mall, Cantt (46771).
Plush and well presented, with all mod cons including swimming pool. The best that Varanasi has to offer.
Rs2200 and up.

de Paris,
15 The Mall, Cantt (46601).
Founded by a Frenchman at the turn of the century, and set in extensive gardens, it captures an old-world atmosphere. Large comfortable rooms, but poorly run.
Rs750-1200.

Hindustan International,
C21/3 Maldahiya (57075).
Plush, characterless business-class hotel, with an atrium at its centre, and good facilities including a swimming pool.
Rs1200-2200.

ITDC Varanasi Ashok,
The Mall (46020). Next to Clarks in the quiet leafy Cantonment; with all mod cons including a swimming pool, but poorly maintained.
Rs2200 and up.

Taj Ganges,
Nadesar Palace Grounds (345110).
Top hotel, in the grand Taj style. Excellent facilities - two restaurants, a bar and a swimming pool - but lacking the character of Clarks.
Rs2200 and up.

If You Wanna' Live Sensibly:
Gautam,
Ramkatora (46239).
Clean and moderately comfortable but otherwise characterless and a bit expensive; not far from Pradeep
. Rs225-500.

GM Guest House,
1 Chandrika Colony, Sigra (361292).
Away from the old town, but easy to reach. Good-value rooms, large and air-cooled with clean bathrooms, plus good food.
Rs150-750.

Pallavi International,
Hathwa Place, Chetganj (356939).
Extensive ex-maharajah's palace behind a busy shopping mall - ornate but a bit tacky; used for weddings.
Rs350-750.
Pradeep,
Jagatganj (344963).
Comfortable, quite smart and popular with tour groups; away from the ghats but within striking distance. Attractive multi-cuisine Poonam restaurant.
Rs225-500.

Shalimar,
Varuna Bridge, The Mall (46227).
Overspill for the Surya, next door. Simple but a bit expensive.
Rs150-500.

If You're Really Smart: Railway Retiring Rooms.
Convenient with cheap a/c rooms and dorms; can get booked up.
Up to Rs100-350.

Relax,
Parade Kothi, Cantt (43503).
Good-value budget option near the railway station, just outside the gates of the Tourist Bungalow and next to the Mandarin Chinese restaurant.
Rs100-150.

Sandona,
S17/331-3 City Bus Depot, Maldahiya (46555).
Next to El Parador restaurant. Airy budget rooms, handy for buses and the station. One of the best around here in its range.
Rs100-150.

Ganges View
, Asi Ghat.
A great verandah looking out onto the river, a lobby full of interesting books, a pleasant ambience and an interesting landlord means this popular place is often booked up with visiting musicians and scholars.
Rs150-500.

Golden Lodge,<
D8/35 Kalika Lane (323832).
A small but pleasant guesthouse, popular with budget travellers, which boasts a rooftop patio. Up to Rs100.

House boats,
Mansarovar Ghat.
Very basic and not particularly hygienic, but ideal for soaking up the ambience of life along the river. Up to Rs100.

Kumiko House
(Pension), D24/26 Pandey Ghat.
Run by an elderly, affable Japanese-speaking Bengali who operates a curfew. Small choice of rooms full of atmosphere, pleasantly situated looking steeply down to the water.
Rs100-150.

International Music Ashram,
D33/81 Kalishpura, near Jangambali Post Office.
A few rooms with the added advantage of being part of a music scene.
Rs100-150.

Lara India, Dashashwamedha Rd (320323).
In the heart of Godaulia, this small place has smart a/c rooms, and a good mid-range restaurant, strong on local Varanasi food.
Rs150-500.

WGERE TO EAT AND DRINK

Ayyar's Cafe,
next to Banaras Lodge, Dashashwamedha Rd.
At the back of a shopping arcade, a small, cheap cafe serving south Indian food, including masala dosas, and filter coffee.

El Parador,
Maldahiya Roadways, near Pani Tanki.
Run by a Gurkha family from Darjeeling. Remarkable menu ranging from Mexican to Italian, with good pasta, chocolate cake and pancakes and although popular with travellers and recommended, it is not cheap.

Fagin's,
8/35 Kalika Lane, near Vishwanatha, Dashashwamedha.
An ideal travellers' haunt, with an extensive menu, reasonable prices, and (recorded) music. Part of Golden Lodge.

Ganga Fuji,
D5/8 Kalika Gali, near Vishwanatha, Dashashwamedha.
Odd name for a pleasant little cafe, serving assorted cuisine and with live music in the evenings.
Garden,
opposite Sushil Cinema, Godaulia.

Cheap, leafy and relaxed rooftop cafe aimed at travellers; good breakfasts.
Long-standing local cafe, serving vegetarian food strong on puris (deep fried puffed bread) and the legendary Varanasi kachoris.

Keshari
lane opposite Banaras Lodge, Godaulia.
Paneer (cheese) dishes and good-value thalis. Madhur Milan Cafe,
Dashashwamedha Ghat.
Good for lassis, sweets and kachoris.

Poonam,
Hotel Pradeep, Jagatganj.
Good Mughlai food in a reasonably comfortable environment; but it's not cheap.
Sindhi, Bhelupur Thana. One of Varanasi's most popular restaurants, 1.5km from Godaulia. The rickshaw ride will be rewarded with excellent vegetarian food.
Temple, Hotel Ganges, Bank of Baroda Building, Dashashwamedha Rd. Piped music, an upbeat ambience and a familiar menu have made it an instant success.
Winfa, near Prakash Cinema, Lahurabir. Not much to look at, but the best Chinese food in town

GENERAL INFO:
site code:

Foreigners Registration Office
Srinagar Colony, Sigra (351968).
Opticians Gupta Optical,
Godaulia (10am-7pm).
Pharmacies 24hr-Singh Medical, near Prakash Cinema, Lahurabir, and near the main hospitals.

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