Bejeweeled Pleasures

Once the capital of the Chola kingdom, Thanjavur (Tanjore-is what readily trips off the tongue) is today best remembered for its exquisite paintings created with glass, gold leaf and gem stones, the world famous Tanjore Paintings. Amongst its others treasures lies one of the finest remains of the famous Chola temple architecture-now a World Heritage Site and the world's best collection of Chola bronzes.

HOW TO REACH

By Air: The nearest domestic airport is at Tiruchirappali 58 km away.
List of Airlines  Indian Airlines

By Rail: Thanjavur has excellent connections with Chennai, Madurai, Rameswaram and Trichy.
The overnight trip to Chennai by the Rameshwaram Express takes all of 9 hours. Catch the morning Cholan Express if you want to travel by day.

By Road: Regular bus services connect Thanjavur to all major cities. Computerised booking facilities are available at the SETC bus stand. The state buses tend to use the new, inconveniently located bus stand, which is about 2.5km from downtown.

GETTING AROUND You can take any one of the local buses, which touch the important tourist stops in and around Thanjavur. There are tourist cabs, (if you want to splurge) aplenty. If however, you want to do it cheap go for an autorickshaw ride (Haggle like crazy) or hire a bike (you may have to do some digging around for a likely rental place -but you're on holiday-right!)

WHERE TO SHACK UP If You Wanna' Blow Dough

Parisutham, Canal Rd.Tel 04362 21601. 50 rooms. Rates vary between Rs.300 to 4,025.

If You Wanna' Live Sensibly

Hotel Tamil Nadu Gandhi Rd. Tel. 04362 30365 . 32 rooms. Rates vary between Rs 300 to 600.

If You Wanna' Be Really Smart

Tamil Nadu Lodge, near Trichy Rd. Rates vary from Rs 65 to 100.
Hotel Valli, M.K. Rd. Rooms are quite decent. Rates vary between Rs 120 to 350

THINGS TO DO

Visit the famous Brihadishwara Temple and Fort, built by one of the greatest Chola emperors Raja Raja. This UNESCO World Heritage listed site is one of the few remaining samples of the glory of Chola temple architecture. Created out of a single piece of granite. The monumental task of its construction is a marvel in itself.

Thanjavur Palace

This massive labyrinthine building was the work of both the Nayaks of Madurai and the Marathas. The partial ruins are being restored now, but one still can get a perspective of its former glory. The Chola bronzes in the museum in the Nayak Durbar Hall, which is located here, are fantastic and the finest collection in the world.

Contact the Poompuhar Handicrafts emporium to find out where you can see the artists creating the magnificent Tanjore paintings. Another alternative is VR Govindrajan's establishment at 31, Kuthirakkati Street, where artists at work on the first floor of the shop.

Check out Rajaraja Cholan Museum where you'll find various stone sculptures and objects from the excavation of Gangaikondacholapuram in Trichy district (game boards, bangles, terracotta items, etc.)

WHERE TO EAT & DRINK

Explore the Gandhiji Rd. area for a goodly selection of eateries that cater to all tastes. Plenty of idlis and dosas around!anantha bhawan is good for veggie cuisine Check out Kings at the Yagappa hotel for a glass of beer. Fed up of veggie fare? Try the chicken dishes at Sathar's on Gandhiji Rd. Multi-cuisne menu at Thilana (Sangam Hotel)

WHERE TO SHOP

The famous Tanjore Paintings created out of gold leaf, gemstones and glass are native to Thanjavur. The art form entails an extremely tedious process, but the end result is very rich and eye-catching. Krishna and other major deities and familiar scenes from their lives make an appearance in many of the paintings. It was believed that the tradition was begun at the height of the Vijaynagar Empire, which was a well-established and very rich one (thus the use of gold and gem stones in the paintings). Now it seems it could have begun under the patronage of the Maharaja of Thanjavur in the 19th century. The real item costs a bomb, but there are paintings being done in semi-precious stones also. The smaller they are the cheaper they'll be (all depends on the quality of the gems, use of gold leaf and detailing). Check out the shopping area around Gandhiji Rd. for souvenirs. The Poompuhar Arts and Crafts Emporium is worth exploring.

GENERAL INFORMATION