Painted Towns

Less than a decade ago, tour operators were hard-pressed to accommodate the rush of foreign tourists wanting to visit India's Golden Triangle- Delhi-Agra-Jaipur. Apart from the problem of getting convenient flight connections, there was the business of getting accommodation as well. The other problem was finding exciting new holiday options (covering romantic Rajasthan) for those who'd already done the Golden Triangle.

The answer came to them in the guise of the Shekhawati region, in Rajasthan. Chanced upon by heritage property entrepreneurs, Francis Wacizarg and Aman Nath, during their travels, the painted havelis of Shekahawati have since become all the rage for tourists setting off to visit the state.Caught up in the semi-desert aridity of a triangle between Delhi, Jaipur and Bikaner, Shekhawati is famous for its frescoed embellished mansions, many of them which are owned by India's industrialist families, hailing from this region, before they hit the pot of gold and moved into the big cities. (It's a veritable Who's Who of Indian industry- when you list those painted havelis and their owners!) Today the discovery of this land of painted havelis is like finding a lost page from the volume of history of India's arts and crafts.
Best time to go is between September to March.

HOW TO REACH

By Air:
The nearest airport is in Jaipur.

By Rail:
Catch the Shekhawati Express, which runs daily from Delhi to Jaipur and stops en route at Jhunjhunu, Mukundgarh and Sikar. The Pink City Express from Delhi also feeds Jaipur.

By Road:
Sikar and Jhunjhunu are well connected by both rail and road with Jaipur, Delhi and Bikaner. If you prefer pool in to hire a tourist taxi (check routes etc. at Bikaner House at the RTDC tourist office in Delhi to co-ordinate your plans.) or share the cost of the trip with friends and persuade one them to take their own car. Offer to do driving time also. Best to take the Rewari route from Delhi to Jhunjhunu and onwards, though you may prefer the longer route via Rohtak and Bhiwani but has the road is better.

GETTING AROUND
Jeeps, un-metered cabs, autorickshaws, cycle rickshaws and tongas. Regular buses ply between various towns and villages in the region.

WHERE TO SHACK UP

If You Wanna' Blow Dough

Hotel Shiv Shekhavati
Jhunjhunu
Tel. 32651

Hotel Castle Mandawa
Mandawa
Tel. 23124

Hotel Rath
Mandawa
Tel. 23140

Hotel Roop Niwas Palace
Nawalgarh
Tel. 22008

Dundlod Fort
Dundlod
Tel. 2519

Mukandgarh Fort Mukandgarh Tel. 52396

Hotel Sangam
Opposite Bus Stand
Jhunjhunu

If You Wanna' Live Sensibly:

Hotel RTDC
Mandawa Mor
Jhunjhunu
Tel. 38266
Cost: Room rates vary from Rs400 to Rs650

Hotel Shekhavati Heritage
Close to Municipal Board
Jhunjhunu
Tel. 37134
Cost: Room rates vary from Rs500 to Rs800

Piramal Haveli
Bagar
Tel. 22220

Narayan Niwas Castle
Mahansar
Tel. 64322

If You Wanna' Be Really Smart

There's a good selection of Circuit Houses, PWD and Electricty Board Dak Bungalows in Sikar, Churu, Jhunjhunu, Khetri and Pilani. Local authiorities will give you permission to stay. The rates are cheap nd food can be arranged at nominal costs. Prior notice has to be given for the meals.

THINGS TO DO

Situated on the old trade routes, the Shekhawati region was a prosperous trading region. It was the wealthy merchants of the region who built these lavish havelis and commissioned them to be embellished with colourful paintings. The paintings translated the lifestyle of the regions populace in detail upon the inner walls of the courtyards. The Shekhawati havelis, unlike the Mughal havelis consist of two courtyards- one outer and one inside the main complex. Latticed and carved windows add a pretty dimension to the ordinary façade.

Walk in through the main entrance and you'll be entranced with the painted beauties that meet the eye. The facades, the gateways and the inner courtyard walls are covered with exquisitely detailed paintings. The intricate wooden cravings, ornate brass and iron fittings are also an indication of the owner's prestige and wealth.

The Persian, Jaipur and Mughal schools of painting considerably influenced these frescoes. As you move from haveli to haveli you'll realise that the earliest ones are dated around 1750 and the later ones 1930. You can easily identify the change of lifestyle identified in the thematic content of the paintings. Though there is a massive amount of mythological themes, intermingled with local legend, the later paintings depict motor cars, gramophones, airplanes, ships bicycles and even balloons.

Castle Mandawa was one of the first to be converted into a heritage hotel. They also set up a tented desert camp where their clients could get a feel for the desert. At night the castle rings with the sound of Rajasthani music, dance and carefree laughter. Mashals aloft, beautifully accoutered servants bring in the food and wine in traditional lavish festivity. The bolsters on the carpeted floor ease back to take you weight as you watch the evening unfold before you with languid pleasure. Founded in the mid-18th century Mandawa castle has a fort from which you get great views of the little town as well. The painted archway depicts a scene of Lord Krishna with his cows. Check out the Goenka, Saraf, Ladla and Chokhani havelis.

Nawalgarh, founded in 1737, has some of the finest frescoes in the Shekhawati region. Check out the Poddar, Patodia and Bansidhar Bhagat havelis-also Roop Niwas palace hotel. The earliest frescoes are located at Parasrampura, a short distance away from Nawalgarh. These are painted on the interior of a temple and the dome of the chattri dedicated to Shardul Singh, a descendant of Rao Shekhaji, and the founder of Shekhawati.

Dundlod is located in the heart of the Shekhawati region. The fort dating back to the year1750 is an imposing affair. Check out the Goenka haveli. Dundlod castle is now a hotel. At Jhunjhunu spend a little time at the Mohan Das Modi haveli, the Khaitan haveli and the beautifully painted Khetri Mahal and Biharji temple. If you have time check out the Laxminath temple, Ajit Sagar and Badalagarh. Khetri was founded in the 18th century and was the second wealthiest thikana under Jaipur. Check out the Raghunath temple paintings, and its worth your while to explore the famous Mukundgarh fort with its Kanoria and Ganeriwals havelis. At Mukandgarh you can also investigate the handicraft market.

At Lachhmangarh, the grand Char Chowk haveli is a reminder of the prosperous Marwari way of life. Check out the Kedia haveli, Mirijamal haveli, Sanganeria haveli and the Swant Ram Chokhani haveli. Sikar was the wealthiest thikana under Jaipur state and its 17th century fort was set up when it became an important trading centre. Check out the Murarka and Somani havelis. At Chirwa you'll find the sprawling Tara Chand Kesar Dev Dalmia haveli and Dulichand Kakrania haveli. At Baggar are located the havelis of the Piramals and the Rungtas. At Fatehpur there are the Jalan and Bhartiya havelis and the Ram Gopal Mahavir Prasad Goenka haveli is also worth visiting. At Churu check out the Surana Haveli with its 1,100 doors and windows, the Kanhaiya Lal Bagla haveli, the Kothari haveli. Got time? Check out the Poddar haveli the Parakh haveli and the Sagarmal Vaidya haveli.

At Ramgarh the dome of the Poddar cenotaph is embellished with scenes from the Ramayana. Check out the Ram Nath Ruia and Bagaria havelis along with the Ganga temple and Tara Chand Ghanshyam Das Poddar haveli. Inside the Birla haveli at Pilani there's a fine museum. The forts in Alsisar and Malsisar, in the northern most outpost of Shekhawati, and the temples and the Jhunjhunwala havelis are superb.

WHERE TO EAT & DRINK

Check out Jamuna Resort and Amber Restaurant at Jhunjhunu. At Churu there's the Deluxe hotel and restaurant, Swagat Restaurant and Baba Restaurant. Sikar has the Natraj restaurant, Pawan restaurant and Niraj Restaurant.

WHERE TO SHOP

Mukandgarh is excellent for Rajasthani handicrafts, textiles, brass and iron scissors. At Mandawa there's the glorious collection of bangles and textiles to choose from. In Jhunjhunu check out Nehru Market, Goodri Bazar in Churu go flat out in the bazaars of Station Road and in Ramgarh check out the wooden furniture and wood craft.

GENERAL INFORMATION

Tourist Office
Tourist Reception Centre, Mandawa Circle, Churu Bypass Rd. Jhunjhunu Tel 01592 32909,

STD Code
Jhunjhunu/Bagar/Mandawa - 01592
Nawalgarh - 01594
Fatehpur - 01571
Churu - 01562

Money Matters

Medical Matters

Shekhavati

Painted Towns

Less than a decade ago, tour operators were hard-pressed to accommodate the rush of foreign tourists wanting to visit India's Golden Triangle- Delhi-Agra-Jaipur. Apart from the problem of getting convenient flight connections, there was the business of getting accommodation as well. The other problem was finding exciting new holiday options (covering romantic Rajasthan) for those who'd already done the Golden Triangle.

The answer came to them in the guise of the Shekhawati region, in Rajasthan. Chanced upon by heritage property entrepreneurs, Francis Wacizarg and Aman Nath, during their travels, the painted havelis of Shekahawati have since become all the rage for tourists setting off to visit the state.

Caught up in the semi-desert aridity of a triangle between Delhi, Jaipur and Bikaner, Shekhawati is famous for its frescoed embellished mansions, many of them which are owned by India's industrialist families, hailing from this region, before they hit the pot of gold and moved into the big cities. (It's a veritable Whos Who of Indian industry- when you list those painted havelis and their owners!) Today the discovery of this land of painted havelis is like finding a lost page from the volume of history of India's arts and crafts.

THINGS TO DO

Situated on the old trade routes, the Shekhawati region was a prosperous trading region. It was the wealthy merchants of the region who built these lavish havelis and commissioned them to be embellished with colourful paintings. The paintings translated the lifestyle of the regions populace in detail upon the inner walls of the courtyards. The Shekhawati havelis, unlike the Mughal havelis consist of two courtyards- one outer and one inside the main complex. Latticed and carved windows add a pretty dimension to the ordinary façade.

Walk in through the main entrance and you'll be entranced with the painted beauties that meet the eye. The facades, the gateways and the inner courtyard walls are covered with exquisitely detailed paintings. The intricate wooden cravings, ornate brass and iron fittings are also an indication of the owner's prestige and wealth.

The Persian, Jaipur and Mughal schools of painting considerably influenced these frescoes. As you move from haveli to haveli you'll realise that the earliest ones are dated around 1750 and the later ones 1930. You can easily identify the change of lifestyle identified in the thematic content of the paintings. Though there is a massive amount of mythological themes, intermingled with local legend, the later paintings depict motor cars, gramophones, airplanes, ships bicycles and even balloons.

Castle Mandawa was one of the first to be converted into a heritage hotel. They also set up a tented desert camp where their clients could get a feel for the desert. At night the castle rings with the sound of Rajasthani music, dance and carefree laughter. Mashals aloft, beautifully accoutered servants bring in the food and wine in traditional lavish festivity. The bolsters on the carpeted floor ease back to take you weight as you watch the evening unfold before you with languid pleasure. Founded in the mid-18th century Mandawa castle has a fort from which you get great views of the little town as well. The painted archway depicts a scene of Lord Krishna with his cows. Check out the Goenka, Saraf, Ladla and Chokhani havelis.

Nawalgarh, founded in 1737, has some of the finest frescoes in the Shekhawati region. Check out the Poddar, Patodia and Bansidhar Bhagat havelis-also Roop Niwas palace hotel. The earliest frescoes are located at Parasrampura, a short distance away from Nawalgarh. These are painted on the interior of a temple and the dome of the chattri dedicated to Shardul Singh, a descendant of Rao Shekhaji, and the founder of Shekhawati.

Dundlod is located in the heart of the Shekhawati region. The fort dating back to the year1750 is an imposing affair. Check out the Goenka haveli. Dundlod castle is now a hotel. At Jhunjhunu spend a little time at the Mohan Das Modi haveli, the Khaitan haveli and the beautifully painted Khetri Mahal and Biharji temple. If you have time check out the Laxminath temple, Ajit Sagar and Badalagarh. Khetri was founded in the 18th century and was the second wealthiest thikana under Jaipur. Check out the Raghunath temple paintings, and its worth your while to explore the famous Mukundgarh fort with its Kanoria and Ganeriwals havelis. At Mukandgarh you can also investigate the handicraft market.

At Lachhmangarh, the grand Char Chowk haveli is a reminder of the prosperous Marwari way of life. Check out the Kedia haveli, Mirijamal haveli, Sanganeria haveli and the Swant Ram Chokhani haveli. Sikar was the wealthiest thikana under Jaipur state and its 17th century fort was set up when it became an important trading centre. Check out the Murarka and Somani havelis. At Chirwa you'll find the sprawling Tara Chand Kesar Dev Dalmia haveli and Dulichand Kakrania haveli. At Baggar are located the havelis of the Piramals and the Rungtas. At Fatehpur there are the Jalan and Bhartiya havelis and the Ram Gopal Mahavir Prasad Goenka haveli is also worth visiting. At Churu check out the Surana Haveli with its 1,100 doors and windows, the Kanhaiya Lal Bagla haveli, the Kothari haveli. Got time? Check out the Poddar haveli the Parakh haveli and the Sagarmal Vaidya haveli.

At Ramgarh the dome of the Poddar cenotaph is embellished with scenes from the Ramayana. Check out the Ram Nath Ruia and Bagaria havelis along with the Ganga temple and Tara Chand Ghanshyam Das Poddar haveli. Inside the Birla haveli at Pilani there's a fine museum. The forts in Alsisar and Malsisar, in the northern most outpost of Shekhawati, and the temples and the Jhunjhunwala havelis are superb.

Shopping

Mukandgarh is excellent for Rajasthani handicrafts, textiles, brass and iron scissors. At Mandawa there's the glorious collection of bangles and textiles to choose from. In Jhunjhunu check out Nehru Market, Goodri Bazar in Churu go flat out in the bazaars of Station Road and in Ramgarh check out the wooden furniture and wood craft.

Where To Eat and Drink