Cultural Kaleidoscope

Introduction

With its smooth spread of white-domed houses and temples reflected in a tranquil lake, PUSHKAR, just 13km northwest of Ajmer, resembles nothing so much as a pearl dropped in the desert. Although during the annual camel fair, held during the full moon in October or November, Pushkar is transformed into a crowded hive of activity, for the rest of the year this profoundly peaceful town makes a welcome respite from the din and hassle of the cities. One of those destinations where travellers tend to stay considerably longer than they originally envisage, it is also a popular place to relax before flying out of Delhi, a night's train or bus journey away.

No one knows quite how old Pushkar is: legend relates that at the beginning of time, Brahma dropped a lotus flower (pushkara) from the sky, declared the lake that sprang from the arid desert sands to be holy, and promised that anyone who bathed in it would be freed from their sins. As the site of one of only two temples in the world dedicated solely to the Lord Brahma, Pushkar attracts a constant flow of pilgrims to worship and bathe from its 52 lakeside ghats. Records of visits go back as far as the second century, when the Kshatrapa ruler of western India came to immerse himself and present gifts to the brahmins.

The streets of Pushkar are too narrow for traffic, and there are no rickshaws; a lazy stroll around the shores of the lake and through the main bazaar takes little more than an hour. Shopping is the prime pastime for visitors; you're encouraged to take all the time you want browsing at the countless small roadside stalls, choosing from a vast assortment of clothes, jewellery, second-hand books, chillums, Indian classical music CDs and cassettes, and Rajasthani paintings. You'd do better, however, to buy the latter in Udaipur; clothes here (especially of the hippy variety), are usually much better buys

- its synonymnous with one of the most extravagantly colourful festivals, not just in Rajasthan, but in India too it's also one of the holiest centres of Hinduism. Try getting even leg space when its on and you'll be lucky - you'll nod in sympathy with one young dude who proudly bragged he was enterprising enough to use a camel as a tent when there was no room in the inn! Ferenghis arrive in hordes to attend- people book well in advance (some cases, even a year) to catch the best and also cheapest rooms in town- depending on their budget.

If you don't have a camera, beg, borrow or steal one (only joking!). Puskhkar has so many captivating moments to carry home- your memory will just not do it full justice.

Come November and the annual Pushkar fair, is a riot of colour and ceremony that bedazzles the senses. The fair, has become an astonishingly colorful camel and cattle fair, and one if the largest of its kind in Asia.

According to legend, the winking lake that stands placidly at the core of these festivities, appeared miraculously out of nowhere, Lord Bramha the Creator when he was looking for a place to do a yagna. As he performed his yagana (sacrifice) at this spot lotus fell from his hands and a lake sprang out. It is said that if you bathe in this holy lake during Kartik you are cleansed of all your sins. The month of Kartik sees 12 days of festivity and joy and spiritual overload. This sleepy little town on the edge of the desert, where you would probably make a quick stopover en route, to Ajmer (11km), makes up for its reclusive image with a vengeance.

The pretty little lake deified by lord Bramha is surrounded by the Nag Pahars (snake mountains) on three sides and is second only to Lake Mansorovar in sanctity. Pushkar itself has 400 hundred temples, (every major deity in the Hindu pantheon is worshipped in Pushkar) the most important one is dedicated to lord Bramha. The 52 ghats (said to be linked with the lunar calendar, with each ghat having its own miraculous power) around the lake are so crowded with pilgrims at the time of the festival, the sea of humanity seems to merge with the water of the lake, on the full moon night at Kartik-Purnima.

The locals come out in their most raciest turbans, the women in all their multi-hued finery, clinking silver anklets and colourful and highly embellished odhnis et al. The medley of snack-laden booths stands cheek by jowl with gaily-canopied booths stocked with bangles and brassware, cloth and camel saddles. Dance, music and cultural highlights add the delicious spark to the entire run of the festival.

As vendors and visitors push and struggle to get the best vantagepoint for sales and views, thousands of pilgrims converge on the holy waters of the lake to take a dip. The joyous fun of Laddoo Oonth (camel loading), tug-o-wars- (pitch in if you can) and people watching, act as a brilliant foil to the hectic commercial pitch of sellers of camels who parade their colourfully caparisoned, disdainful charges in front of the huddle of potential buyers which include desert tribesmen and camel caravans.

THINGS TO DO

Get a place to crash. First things first. Make sure you have some kind of accommodation organized. It's no fun missing the best part of the festivities trying to find a place to crash at the end of the day…you may not even find an accommodating camel! Rajasthan Tourism Dev. Corp. (RTDC) has organized a special tourist village complex. There's tented accommodation- as well as a 24 hour coffee shop, Tourist Info booth, Forex Exchange counter, Post office and medical facilities.

Mingle. Plunge in to the melee and merge with the crowds. If you're with buddies tie up where to meet up, away from the milling crowds. Carry plenty of film and battery with you to catch the views. This is a photographer's paradise!

Catch that camel race- ten men trying to scramble onto the camel (Laddoo Unth) -watch the gamblers make their paces. Watch the action amongst the vendors and buyers as they prod and poke and groom the camels stock. Wander down to where the folk dancing and music, magicians and fortune tellers, add that extra zing to the general cacophony …. all a camera-toting tourist's mind-blurring, dream come true..

The Arti- After the chaos and the clamour of the day, participate in one of the most moving and spiritual ceremonies. As the sun plunges into the waters of the lake and nightfall descends stealthily. The ringing of bells, beat of the drums and hollow shriek of the conches resonate with renewed vigour as thousands of tiny diyas are sent scudding along the lake's surface after the beautiful Arti puja- (the ceremony of deepdan). The 20-minute ceremony ends with a prayer and the distribution of pershad. It's magical.

Shop. Be prepared to splurge on local wares from the stalls at the fair. There embroidered fabrics and shoes and shawls and duppattas, beads and bangles, saddle covers and camel-leather goods, mirrored wall hangings and jhola bags.

Temple Visits. Pushkar has thousands of little temples, many of them located along the shoreline of the holy lake. The most important is of course the Brahma Temple-This is probably one of India's few Brahma temples. Emperor Aurangzeb destroyed built originally in the 12th century Varah Temple-. Raja Sawai Jai Singh II of Jaipur reconstructed it in 1727.

Introduction

With its smooth spread of white-domed houses and temples reflected in a tranquil lake, PUSHKAR, just 13km northwest of Ajmer, resembles nothing so much as a pearl dropped in the desert. Although during the annual camel fair, held during the full moon in October or November, Pushkar is transformed into a crowded hive of activity, for the rest of the year this profoundly peaceful town makes a welcome respite from the din and hassle of the cities. One of those destinations where travellers tend to stay considerably longer than they originally envisage, it is also a popular place to relax before flying out of Delhi, a night's train or bus journey away.

No one knows quite how old Pushkar is: legend relates that at the beginning of time, Brahma dropped a lotus flower (pushkara) from the sky, declared the lake that sprang from the arid desert sands to be holy, and promised that anyone who bathed in it would be freed from their sins. As the site of one of only two temples in the world dedicated solely to the Lord Brahma, Pushkar attracts a constant flow of pilgrims to worship and bathe from its 52 lakeside ghats. Records of visits go back as far as the second century, when the Kshatrapa ruler of western India came to immerse himself and present gifts to the brahmins.

The streets of Pushkar are too narrow for traffic, and there are no rickshaws; a lazy stroll around the shores of the lake and through the main bazaar takes little more than an hour. Shopping is the prime pastime for visitors; you're encouraged to take all the time you want browsing at the countless small roadside stalls, choosing from a vast assortment of clothes, jewellery, second-hand books, chillums, Indian classical music CDs and cassettes, and Rajasthani paintings. You'd do better, however, to buy the latter in Udaipur; clothes here (especially of the hippy variety), are usually much better buys.

Arrival and Information

Most long-distance journeys to and from Pushkar have to be made via Ajmer; Pushkar does not have a railway station. The Ajmer bus stand in the east of town is served by buses from Ajmer and Jaipur, while travellers from destinations further afield, such as Delhi, Jodhpur and Bikaner, arrive in the north of town at Marwar bus stand, to be besieged by eager accommodation touts. The lack of rickshaws means that you'll have to walk to your hotel (though there are bicycles for rent right by the Ajmer bus stand). There is no tourist office in Pushkar. The GPO for parcels and poste restante is in the north of town, and there's a smaller one on the market square. The State Bank of Bikaner and Jaipur (Mon-Fri 11am-3pm) in the square near Varah Ghat is the best bet for currency exchange.

In addition to the state buses, a number of private bus firms run daily buses to Delhi, Agra, Jaipur, Abu, Jaisalmer, Udaipur, Jodhpur and Ahmedabad, and some have connecting services from Pushkar. All can usually be booked from hotels. The management at the Peacock Hotel will book onward rail journeys from Ajmer for a small charge (and book, cancel or change air tickets). Otherwise go to Ajmer to book for yourself well in advance; trains to Delhi in particular are often reserved days ahead

Karttika Purnima and Pushkar Camel Fair

Hindus visit Pushkar year round to take a dip in the redemptory waters of the lake, but there is one particular day when bathing here is believed to relieve devotees of all their sins, and ultimately free them from the bonds of samsara: the full moon (purnima) of the Karttika month (usually Nov). For five days leading up to and including the full moon, Pushkar hosts thousands of celebrating devotees, following prescribed rituals on the lakeside and in the Brahma Mandir. To add to the flurry of colour and activity, a few days before the main religious festival a large camel fair is held in the sandy flats west of the town, when hordes of traders from all over Rajasthan gather to parade, race and trade their camels, horses and cattle. The transformation of Pushkar from a peaceful desert town is complete and overwhelming - the streets are packed with swarms of devotees, eager traders and hundreds of tourists; hotels and restaurants are choc-a-bloc, and prices soar. Families from all over Rajasthan struggle through the crowded lanes laden with children, blankets, food and makeshift tents, setting up camp west of town where night fires, delicious open-air cooking smells and harmonious tunes drifting through the starlit night create an unforgettable experience.

Once trading is under way camels and cattle are meticulously groomed, lined up and auctioned, while women dressed in mirrored skirts and vivid shawls lay out embroidered cloth, jewellery, pots and ornaments beside the herds, stopping trade occasionally to gather dung to fuel the evening fires. Cattle, poultry, sheep and goats are entered for competitions, and prizes given for the best displays of fruit and vegetables. Away from the main activity, the dusty ground is stirred up by vigorous camel races, noisily urged on by gamblers. Things become even more animated as acrobats balance precariously on tight ropes and cartwheel between the crowds, and insouciant jugglers toss fire batons before enthralled onlookers. Photo-opportunities are limitless, and anyone with a camera should definitely over-budget on films, which may not be on sale in Pushkar.

The fair attracts up to 200,000 people, many of whom are tourists. Hotels hike their rates and are usually full well before the start, but extra accommodation is provided by RTDC in tented compounds outside town where there's a choice between dormitory beds (Rs150-225), deluxe tents (Rs2200 and up), or huts (Rs2200 and up) complete with private bathrooms. Be sure to book ahead by contacting the RTDC office in Jaipur (phone and fax 0141/316045) or by writing well in advance to the Manager, CRO, RTDC, Usha Niwas, Kalyan Path, Jaipur. The tent village has an information counter (72074), exchange facilities, safes, shops and a medical centre. Not surprisingly, food stalls spring up everywhere during the fair, serving freshly cooked regional specialities.

Accommodation

Pushkar has numerous dharamshalas for pilgrims. For the ever-growing influx of Western tourists, there's a wide choice of hotels, many of them in family homes. Most are pretty basic, but they're comfortable, and some provide well-furnished rooms with private bath. Views over the lake are rare, but many have rooftops looking across Pushkar to the distant hills. Some hotels operate 11pm curfews, and most are visited regularly by cheeky, inquisitive monkeys. Note that prices soar during the camel fair.

Amar, set back from the main road in the centre of town (no phone). A delightful little place, with ground-floor rooms facing a lush jasmine-filled garden. Up to Rs100.

Bharatpur Palace, Brahma Temple Rd (72320). Large house bordering the lake with spacious roof area and simple, charming rooms; more expensive ones face the lake, including a special detached "Maharaja's Room". Rs100-350.

Everest Guest House, near the Marwar bus stand (72080). Cheap and popular, though not as homely as some. Up to Rs100. Lake View, Main Bazaar (72106). Simple rooms on a large rooftop, right by the lake. Up to Rs100.

Lotus, south shore of the lake (no phone). In gardens on the lake's edge. Welcoming, cramped and grubby; popular for long stays, and often full. There's an annexe on the main bazaar. Up to Rs100.

Navratan Palace, Brahma Temple Rd, near Brahma Mandir (72145; fax 72225). New, characterless place with large comfy rooms with bath; great views towards the hills. Cleanish, with a pool. Rs225-350.

Oasis, Ajmer Rd (72100). Right next to the Ajmer bus stand, but comfortable and clean, with an interior courtyard and 360° view from the roof. All rooms have attached bathroom with hot water on tap, some have mosquito nets. There's also a swimming pool (Rs25 for non-residents). Rs150-225.

Om, Ajmer Rd (72143). Ramshackle place with central courtyard. Basic rooms, with or without bathroom. Non-residents can use the small pool for Rs50 (or free if dining). Up to Rs100-350.

Payal Guest House, Main Bazaar (72163). Small central hotel with rooms around a fresh, leafy courtyard. Good value and no night curfew. Rs100-150.

Peacock, Ajmer Rd (72093; fax 32974). A little out of town past Ajmer bus stand, and popular mainly for its pool, which non-residents can pay Rs40 to use. Decent rooms but nothing special, plus cheap dorms and more expensive suites, and a restaurant. They also run the Royal Camp resort 2km out of town, with deluxe tents & "cottages". Rs100-750.

Prince, on the road leading off the market square by the post office (no phone). Quiet place with unelaborate rooms around a verdant courtyard; roof area and restaurant. Up to Rs100.

Pushkar Palace (72401 or 2; fax 72226). On the east side of the lake, with panoramic views from a peaceful garden. Rooms range from tiny and basic to large and lavish - the general atmosphere is somewhat upper class. There's also a good restaurant. Rs750-1200. RTDC Sarovar, Ajmer Rd (72040). Entered at the end of Ajmer Rd, but set back from the street in peaceful gardens, just east of the lake. Pleasant and well maintained; rates include evening meal, but the food is notoriously poor. Dorms available. Up to Rs100-350. Siva, on the road leading off the market square by the post office (72120). Popular and very friendly little place with a leafy courtyard and roof top, but small rooms. If it's full, try the similarly priced Sai Baba and Shanti Palace across the street. Up to Rs100

Eating

As Pushkar is sacred to Lord Brahma, all food is strictly veg: meat, eggs and alcohol are banned (and taking drugs is considered highly offensive). However, its restaurants cater for both Indian and foreign palates, offering national dishes as well as pizza, spaghetti and apple pie. Be wary of the many buffets offering tempting all-you-can-eat menus; most are likely to consist of terribly unhealthy reheated food, and it's safer to stick to the more expensive places. This does not apply to buffet breakfasts, however, with unlimited supplies of cereal, toast and curd - try the Omshiva Buffet, on the fourth floor, above Hotel VK, near the Pushkar Palace. If you fancy a change, stalls opposite Gau Ghat sell sumptuous freshly made sweets.

Krishna, Brahma Temple Rd. Tasty Indian dishes, including south Indian dosas at breakfast, and Israeli-style falafel and hummus. Open 8am-10.30pm.

Moondance, opposite Vishnu temple. Nepali-run, with nothing Indian on the menu. Attempts at Thai and "Maxican" food are tasty but nothing like the real thing; the pizza and pasta is the best in town. Taking over from R S as the "in" place for travellers. Open 8.30am-11pm.

R S, opposite the Brahma Mandir. Long-standing favourite, with a small garden area and patio seating. Try its inexpensive but high-quality thalis (after 6pm) or veg curries. Open 7am-10pm.

Rainbow, Brahma Temple Rd. Rooftop restaurant above the Krishna, serving veg curries, pasta, pizza, falafel, Chinese dishes and even attempts at enchiladas and moussaka. Open 8am-midnight.

Raju, Ajmer Rd. Not to be confused with Raju Garden Restaurant, this small basic place serves very cheap curries and good thalis. Open 7am-10pm.

Raju Garden Restaurant, off Main Bazaar near Ram Ghat. Delicious Indian, Chinese and Western food of a standard rarely matched by other restaurants. Set breakfasts for Rs25. Open 8am-11pm.

Sanjay, Main Bazaar. Rooftop seating overlooking the lake; the food - veg curries, thalis, pizza - is nothing special, but the buffet breakfasts (Rs25) are good. Open 7am-11pm. Sarovar, Ajmer Rd. Good Western, Indian, Chinese and Tibetan food in pleasant garden surroundings, next to the Ajmer bus stand. Open 7am-10pm.

Venus, Ajmer Rd. Set back from the lake, with a garden and a roof terrace. The Indian dishes are good, and the "sizzler hotplate" is their speciality, but they haven't quite got the hang of Western cooking. Open 7am-10.30pm

Ghats

The sacred ghats of Pushkar - broad flights of steps leading down into the water - constitute a vital link between temple and lake. Each is named after an event or person, and three in particular bear special significance. Primary among them is Gau Ghat (sometimes called Main Ghat), where visiting ministers and politicians come to worship, and from which ashes of Mahatma Gandhi, Jawaharlal Nehru and Shri Lal Bahadur Shastri were sprinkled into the lake. Brahma Ghat marks the spot where Brahma himself is said to have worshipped, while at the large Varah Ghat, just off the market square, Vishnu is believed to have appeared in the form of Varaha (a boar), one of his nine incarnations. At all the ghats, it is a respected and unspoken request that visitors should remove their shoes at a reverential distance from the lake, and refrain from smoking and taking photos.

Indian and Western tourists alike are urged by local Brahmin priests to worship at the lake, that is, to make Pushkar Puja. This involves the repetition of prayers while scattering rose petals into the lake, and then being asked for a donation (these days often an astronomically high one) which usually goes to temple funds, or to the priest who depends on such benefaction. On completion of the puja, a red thread taken from a temple is tied around your wrist. Labelled the "Pushkar Passport" by locals, this simple token means that you'll no longer attract pushy Pushkar priests, and can wander unhindered onto the ghats.