A bend in the Betwa

Set on a bend on the Betwa, Orcha, the ancient capital of the Bundela chieftain Raja Rudra Pratap, is one of the prettiest little townships in Madhaya Pradesh. Stage-managing the tourist show on the banks of the Betwa River, it draws the gawking tourists from around the country and abroad, as they move on. Don't stop your trip at Gwalior, plan to take in the old Bundelhand areas of Orcha, Jhansi and Shivpuri as they're all pretty close and reach out to you with their own charm. Studding the embankments are three palaces built by successive rulers of Orcha, and its worth staying around to (maybe at one of the Betwa Cottages) enjoy such congenial environs. There's talk of river rafting and other water sports being planned along the Betwa by an adventure tour company. Check it out.

Though the medieval township has a raffish charm about it, despite having slid into backwater on the tourist circuit, its derelict palaces, and havelis are worth a visit for their architectural beauty and lovely murals. Initiated by Raja Rudra Pratap the work on the palace continued even after his death caused by an encounter with a tiger who was trying to make off with a cow.

At the time of Akbar's reign the Bundela's realised the virtue of keeping on good terms with the Mughals and in time Raja Bir Singh Deo, one of Orcha's most illustrious rulers , during his 22year old rule set up forts, palaces around the region. Jhansi fort was also established by Bir Singh. With Aurangzeb on the throne, the relationship between the Bundelas and the Muslims fell apart and with it the Bundela's had to flee Orcha for safer grounds.

BET YOU:
Orcha literally means "Hidden Place".

HOW TO REACH
Air :
Nearest airport is Gwalior (119 km) connected with Delhi, Bhopal, Indore and Mumbai. Khajuraho (170 km), is connected with Delhi, Agra and Varanasi.

Rail :
Nearest railhead is Jhansi (16 km), on the Delhi-Mumbai and Delhi-Chennai main lines. All major mail and express trains stop at Jhansi.

Road :
Orchha lies on a diversion from the Jhansi-Khajuraho road. Regular bus services connect Orchha with Jhansi.Tempos and taxis are also available.

GETTING AROUND
Jeeps, Buses tempos.

WHERE TO SHACK UP

Although Orchha only has a few places to stay, new hotels are being planned to cope with the recent rise in tourist traffic. For now, the most atmospheric and stylish is the MPTDC Sheesh Mahal (Rs225-1200), a converted eighteenth-century palace. Formerly the local Raja's country bolt-hole, this small, very friendly hotel has one single and seven non-a/c doubles - all excellent value, with attached bathrooms and superb views. If you can afford it, treat yourself to a romantic night in the royal apartment (up to Rs100). Perks include candlelit dinner on your own private verandah, a bath-tub, and the ultimate loo with a view. Advance booking is recommended. MPTDC also has accommodation at its peaceful a/c and non a/c Betwa Cottages (Rs350-750), each with a double room and modern bathroom, in gardens outside the village on the banks of the river.

Best of the cheap accommodation in the heart of the bazaar is Palkhi Mahal (Rs100-150), a beautiful old haveli overlooking the Phool Bagh, which has two simple but clean and characterful rooms opening on to a terrace, and a six-bedded dorm (Rs25). Rooms in the Mansarovar (up to Rs100), just off the crossroads above a chai shop, are a bit poky, but fine for a night or two. As a fall-back, try the Prayatak Dharamshala (up to Rs100), a spartan lodge intended for Hindu pilgrims, down by the moat.

WHERE TO EATR,DRINK

The smartest place to eat, and an attractive place to hang out in the evenings, is the colonnaded dining hall in the Sheesh Mahal, which serves a good mix of veg and non-veg food, and tandoori specials at lunch time. Alternatives include the Betwa Cottages (which has the same MPTDC menu), the rooftop Betwa Tarang, by the bazaar crossroads, and a simple thali joint beneath it. You can get hot and spicy dishes and the delicious local speciality, Orchha milkcake, from the small stalls around the gate to the Ram Raja temple forecourt.

THINGS TO DO

Your time here is best spent exploring the various palaces and temples set up by the Bundela rajas.The Madhya Pradesh Tourism (MPTDC) (check reception at Sheesh Mahal) has a walkman tour which is worth using to fully enjoy Orcha's offerings to visitors. The Jehangir Mahal is dedicated to Jehangir when he was visiting Orcha, and with whom Raja Bir Deo enjoyed a good relationship has a ceremonial gateway. The original turquoise tiles still exist on its facade. Madhukar Shah, Bir Singh's predecessor completed the Raj Mahal, started by Rudra Pratap, which lies in the same complex. Being religiously inclined Shah was keenly involved with the building of various temples at Orcha. The opulence of this palace is still evident in the rich expanse of staterooms, trellised balconies and pretty fretwork. Check out the ornamentation on the walls and ceilings. Some of the paintings are still in mint condition. Don't miss the Rai Praveen mahal (for the queens) or the pretty Sheesh Mahal, (the summer retreat) is now run as a hotel.

Dotted around Orcha village are various temples- amongst these you should explore the famous Ram Raja Mandir,Laxminaraian Mandir (beautifully preserved murals) , and the Chatturbhuj Mandir. The chattris on the riverside at the Kanchgha Ghat, look fragile at dawn, but bathed in the vibrant hues of the sunset have an awesome splendour.

SHOPPING
Not a good place to shop.