Times Remembered- Times Past

If the ancient world fascinates you, one of the finest gems excavated by archaeologists is the Great University of Nalanda of the ancient world, in Bihar. The unearthing of a huge complex (virtually intact) was one of the most exciting archaeological finds in the country. The site is spread over an expanse of about 166feet (north south) and 800 feet (east west) and contains 11 monasteries, and several red-bricked temples. Buddha's footsteps took him to Nalanda Univerity quite a few time when he walked the earth, but it was in the period between the 5th and 12th century that it became a major fount of learning and was the focal point of the academic world of olden times. Scholars from all over the ancient world, hearing of its quality of education and scholarly environment would flock to Nalanda and stay on in the hostel facilities provided.

HOW TO REACH
By Air:
The nearest airport is at Patna which is 90km away

By Rail:
The nearest railhead, on the Delhi-Howrah mainline is at Bakhtiyarpur, 8km, though the loop line connects Nalanda.

By Road:
You can pool in for a cab for a day trip. Negotiate rates for your return trip, before embarking on your journey. Shared jeeps also traverse the route between Bihar Sharif and Rajgir and you can hop off at the Nalanda turnoff where you can pile into a shared tonga. If you want to play it safe the Bihar tourism office in Patna, operates a day trip, which includes Patna, Rajgir, Nalanda and Pawapuri (Sundays and Saturdays), at a nominal price.

GETTING AROUND

The cab you hire will reach you to the University ruins- then just use your feet! There are shared tongas available also for the remaining 2km to the gates of the site.

WHERE TO SHACK UP

If You Wanna' Blow Dough
Hotel Maurya Patna, near the Gandhi Maidan in Patna. Tel. 0612 222061. Rates vary from Rs.18,00 upwards.

If You Wanna' Live Sensibly
Hotel Samrat International, Fraser Rd. in Patna. Tel. 0612 220560. Rates vary from Rs 500 upwards.
If You Wanna' Be Really Smart
PWD rest house at Nalanda. Meals and soft drinks available.
There are dharamsalas at the various pavilions (Burmese, Jain, Japanese) for pilgrims.
Around Patna's Fraser Rd. there's plenty of budget accommodation. The Youth Hostel on S.P Verma Rd is quite clean and has dorm
facilities. At the Swayam Sidhi Hotel you can pay about Rs. 300 and above for clean rooms with attached baths.
You can also check out Rajgir (10km from Nalanda) if you want to stay close by. Bihar Tourism has tourist bungalows at Rajgir. (Contact: BTDC. Tel 06119 5176 at Rajgir.)

THINGS TO DO

The grand ruins of the famous Nalanda University, of the ancient world, are surprisingly well maintained and devoid of the usual mess that tends to collect around historic sites visited by a cavalcade of camera toting tourists. You'll also be able to pick up some relevant literature and it's not really necessary to hire a guide. There's a nice little place, which serves tea and soft drinks

The famous Chinese traveller, Hiuen Tsang who came and spent 12 years, as both a student and a teacher, at the university has left a glowing account of life at this ancient citadel of learning and its architectural marvels. This first residential international university of the world had 2,000 teachers and 10,000 students from all over the Buddhist world who came and lived and studied within its precincts. Its monasteries were patronised by the Gupta kings and both King Ashoka and Harshavardhan leant their support to its burgeoning temples and monasteries.

This grand university was brought down to its knees by the Muslim invader Ikhtiyaruddin Khilji in 1199 AD when he ordered the total massacre of its priests and residents, the plundering the rich university. Even the famous library was scattered and burnt to cinders. It's devastation marked the death knell of Buddhism in India.

At the Museum you'll find the Nalanda University seal, numerous sculptures of the Pala period excavated around the site and from Rajgir.

Follow the route up to the Sariputra (Great Stupa) which is 31metres high, with its terraces, steps and surrounding stupas , decorated panels, dormitories and images of the Buddha, much of which is still intact. To get the best view climb to the top. The vast ruins give you a glimpse into one of the most important and exciting features of its original splendour.

Move on to the chaitya site. A massive cluster of small circular brick stupas surrounds this monastery site. From here head for the monasteries themselves. These comprise a row of cells on four sides of a central courtyard.

An International Centre for Buddhist studies was set up at Nalanda in 1951.

Rajgir which is just 10km away, and where you can opt to stay overnight if you wish, is where the first Buddhist Council (immediately after the Mahaparinirvana of the Buddha) was convened at the Sataparni cave by his disciples. It was for the first time that his teachings were actually recorded. On the hill of vultures, Gridkuta (a favourite retreat of the Buddha where he delivered many of his sermons) he is said to have converted King Bimbisara to Buddhism. The Japanese have built a stupa on top of Ratnagiri hill, linked by a ropeway. Rajgir is an important pilgrimage centre for Buddhists, Jains and Hindus devotees.

WHERE TO EAT & DRINK

Patna has a string of restaurants and eateries, both in town and in the various hotels scattered across the city. Match your meal to your pocket. If you plan to stay at Rajgir for the night check out the hotels for a bite.

WHERE TO SHOP

Plunder Patna's bazars- if your are an avid shopper- Nalanda , has been saved from the gaggle of tourist trap shopping stalls!

GENERAL INFORMATION