Home of the blue-skinned god

Birthplace of the butter - stealing, blue-skinned Krishna, who grew up to steal the clothes of the Gopis and then seduced them with his flute-playing, Mathura is a major pilgrimage centre along with twin city Vrindavan. The charioteer of Arjuna at the battle of Kurukshetra and an incarnation of Lord Vishnu, Krishna revealed to the world the supreme truths of life. It also goes by the name of Braj Bhoomi. Mathura is the headquarters of the Hare Krishnas. Mathura's antiquity fades into the mist of time. Strategically located at the crossroads of various trade routes it was an important trade centre and a repository of many cross-cultural permutations with each succeeding century. The various arts that evolved over the centuries are well documented at the Mathura museum.

HOW TO REACH

ByAir:
Kheria airport at Agra which is just 56km away.

By Rail:

You can take the Taj Express from Nizamuddin station in Delhi which takes a little over to hours to get you to Mathura. There are direct trains to Agra from Mathura also.
List of Trains
Taj Express
Kalinga Utkal Express
Mahakaushal Express

By Road:

Get a bus from Delhi's Sari Kale Khan bus terminal on the Ring Road to the new bus stand in Mathura. (3 1/2hrs) Local destinations are covered from the old bus stand in Mathura-but it has two daily buses for Agra as well. Pool in and take your car, or hire a cab to get there and explore the surrounding sites. It's also linked by regular state bus services of Uttar Pradesh, Madhya Pradesh, Rajasthan and Haryana.

GETTING AROUND

Cabs and autorickshaws will take you from Mathura toVrindavan and back. Negotiate in advance. There's a train service between the two as well. For local running bargain with cycle rickshaws and tongas. The local buses are hugely crowded- best avoided.

WHERE TO SHACK UP

If You Wanna' Blow Dough
Best Western Radha Ashok, Masani By Pass Rd. Chattikara. Tel. 0565 405557
Hotel Mansarovar Palace, State Bank Crossing. Tel. 0565 408686
If You Wanna' Live Sensibly
Mukund Palace, Station Rd. Tel 0565 410316. Rates vary from Rs.500 to 800
If You Wanna' Be Really Smart
International GuestHouse, near Krishna Janambhoomi. Rates vary from Rs.50 to 100.
ISCON Guest House at Vrindavan. Tariff Rs 250.

THINGS TO DO

This is Krishana country. Its where the legendary hero of Hinduism and the lover of the ravishing Radha was born and spent his youth, creating havoc in the lives of his indulgent mother, in Mathura on the banks of the river Yamuna and the milkmaids of Vrindavan village where he grazed his cows.

Left in the tender care of foster parents Yoshoda and Nand, at birth in a tiny prison cell,
by the Yadava prince Vasudeva and his wife Devki who uncovered a plot against the infant, by his uncle Kansa ruler of Mathura, Krishna grew to manhood amongst the cowherds of Gokul in Braj. The necklace of villages and tiny hamlets here are redolent with his legendary, mischievous exploits and the magical music of his flute, as he grew up amongst the cowherds.

Braj Bhoomi as this land is known, was transformed into a major pilgrimage centre for Krishna bhakts (devotees) and all year round the celebration of the god in all his avtars is conducted with lavish ceremonials. Braj Bhoomi starts from Kotban near Hodel and ends at Runakuta, famous for its associations with the poet Surdas who was an ardent devotee of Krishna. The eastern part of the trans - Yamuna tract is where are located, Gokul, Mahavan, Baldeo, Mat and Bajna and on the western side is the Mathura region which includes Vrindavan, Govardhan, Kusum Sarovar, Barsana and Nandgaon.

Temples and shrines scattered across the region and the bathing ghats along the Yamuna a fever of activity all year round, at both Mathura and Vrindavan.

Krishna Jamansthan, has the splendid Katra Kehav temple identifying the birth place of Lord Krishna while the Dwarakadish Temple is Mathura's most popular shrine. Wend your way down to the numerous ghats along the banks of the river. Of these 25 ghats the Vishram Ghat is supposed to be the most important as this is where Krishan rested having killed his wicked uncle Kansa; whose ruined fort is visible on the riverbank; there's another where his mother tied him up for stealing the butter. Make sure you get some nice shots of the elaborate arti that is performed here at dusk.

Move on to Vrindavan,known for Krishna's lila (frolicking), of eroticism and the archetypal roots with nature, and explore the various temples here, which include the Govind Deo Temple, built by Raja man Sing of Jaipur, The Rangaji Temple, The Madan Mohun temple, the Banke Bihari Temple, the Radha Vallabh Temple and the Shahji Temple. Check out the sacred grove where Radha and Krishna cavorted together in those lazy - hazy days.

The Vrindavan Parikrama (10km) where devotees visit the most important sites, takes about a couple of hours; it is generally conducted on Ekdasi (the eleventh day of the waxing and waning moon), bare foot. Smearing yourself with the dust of Vrindavan (the highest of all three divisions of Krishnaloka) is considered to be most beneficial as "the dust of Govinda's lotus feet is so sacred that even Bramha, Shiv and Rama take the dust on their heads to dispel sinful reactions".

Check out a performance of Raaslila- a dance festival pertaining to Krishna's childhood. When the gopis started becoming complacent about Krishna dancing with them he just vanished. In an agony of waiting for his return, the maidens started enacting his lilas (the divine episodes of his life)- thus Raaslila. Only young Brahmin boys of 13-14 years of age are permitted to perform Rasslila. The main theme - his pranks

The Mansarovar lake, close to Vrindavan , according to legend was created by the tears of the weeping Radha when she thought she had lost Krishna. Today it is also a bird sanctuary.

If you're here around Janamashtami (August -September), the celebration of Krishna's birth- you'll be in for a real treat as the celebrations are fantastically colourful and moving.Check out Holi (Feburary-March) celebrations at Nandgram and get into the spirit of things. At Phalen, the festival is celebrated with a huge bonfire at midnight, and one of the local priests walks unscathed through the conflagration.

WHERE TO EAT & DRINK

Where else would you find the finest butter, but in Krishna land (he really gave his mom a hard time!) You'll find some excellent veggie fare here as vegetarianism is pretty strong here. Try authentic Mathura cuisine- particularly the famous Mathura ke Dubkiwale Alloo. Try the Gokul Restaurant (UPSTD) on the Delhi Bypass Rd. Mayur Restaurant at Hotel Madhuban, the Tulsi Chandan Restaurant at the Hotel Radha Ashok. Quality Restaurant near the old bus stand. Check out the thalis at the ISKCON guesthouse.

WHERE TO SHOP

Browse amongst the shop-lined, curving streets behind the Vishram Ghat for glass beads, necklaces, bangles and rudraksha malas.
Textiles, silver ornaments and handicrafts, beautiful moortis and beautifully illustrated Hindu scriptures.

GENERAL INFORMATION