Monsoon Musings

The hilltop fortification that spawned the legend of Baz Bahadur and Roopmati may not be on the regular tourist circuits- but for those who've travelled from the beaten path- they've been enchanted. Mandu, located in the Madhya Pradesh, was originally the capital of the Parmar rulers, but its natural defenses ( it's perched atop an isolated rocky outcrop on the plateau ) made it an important post of the Sultans of Malwa at the end of the 13th century.

Triggered by the spurts of creativity the sultans were responsible for the lavish palaces (the Jehaz Mahal and Hindola Mahal) pleasure pavilions, baths and canals that punctuated this historic fort city. Elaborate gardens were set down to act as delightful contrasts to the finely crafted embellishments in the stone work of the city's palaces and pavilions. The Jami Masjid and the Hoshang Shah Tomb are considered to be architectural marvels. With the Mughals in power, the city saw a revival in the addition of palaces and lakes and pleasure gardens by its conquerors.

Though the ghost- town of Mandu, at 2000' on the Vindhya ranges, is an all round destination (in the blaze of summer all those stone ruins can be a disenchantment), its just magical in the rains when the environs are a lush green. This is endorsed by no less a personality than the Mughal Emperor Jehangir.

BET YOU Don't KNOW THIS

Archeological evidence suggests that the remote hill-top was first fortified around the sixth century AD, when it was known as Mandapa-Durga, or "Durga's hall of worship"

HOW TO REACH

You can catch a tour from Indore which is 98km away .
You can stay overnight in the MPTC lodge- but you need to book in advance.
Nearest facilities- Indore

GETTING AROUND

If you don't have your own vehicle, the most pleasant way of getting around the fort and its widely dispersed monuments is to rent a bicycle from the VIP Wine Shop, just off the main square, or from your hotel (Rs20 per day). Alternatively, you can squeeze into the village's decrepit old tempo that runs between the Village Square and Rewa Kund group at regular intervals, or rent one of the town's two auto-rickshaws for a complete tour

WHERE TO SHACK UP

Most places to stay inside the fort are managed by MPTDC, who advise visitors to book a couple of days in advance.

Travellers' Lodge (07292/63221;
Rs350-500

Tourist Rest House
), opposite the Jama Masjid
(up to Rs100,)

The MPTDC Tourist Cottages (07292/63235; Rs350-750),
2km south of the square,
Mandu's most comfortable and expensive hotel.

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK

The Tourist Cottages' pleasant semi-open-air restaurant is the best place to eat in the fort. Unlike the cafeteria in the Tourist Lodge, you don't have to order your evening meal in advance, and they serve beer in addition to the standard MPTDC menu of moderately priced Indian, Chinese and Western food.

Shivani Hotel, halfway between the square and the SADA barrier.

Relax Point,
on the square
offers chai, cold drinks and greasy fried snacks.

Avoid meat, though, as frequent power-cuts mean that even places with refrigerators can have problems keeping it fresh.

THINGS TO DO

Flamboyant Sultan Ghiyas-uddin Khilji, to house his harem of 15,000 mistresses, and royal bodyguard that comprised of one thousand Abyssinian and Turkish amazons, created the famous Zehaz Mahal as a lavish pleasure palace. Enjoying the fruits of his labour he lived till the age of 80 and was poisoned to death by his son. This two-storied, 120 meter- long "ship palace" was ensconced between the two artificial lakes, Munj Talao and Kapur Talao. The Jahaz Mahal's open pavilions, balconies overlooking the water and open terrace were meant to enhance the replication in stone of the royal pleasure barge.

The Hindola Mahal - the old sultan's elaborate audience hall that he would enter on astride an elephant, derives its name from the "Swinging Palace" from its sloping sidewalls. The Champa Baoli, the step-well is connected with underground vaulted rooms, which were provided cold and hot water.

Baz Bahadur's Palace- Baz Bahadur was Mandu's last independent ruler and his name is now legendary for his love for Rupmati. Having persuaded her to leave her home on the plains, he created a new palace especially for her. The pretty Rupmati Pavilion was so positioned that whenever she was home sick she could gaze down upon the plains and the Narmada River. Baz Bahadur and Rupmati tried to esacpe from Emperor Akbar who was not only keen to steal the lovely queen, but also get his hands on the fort.. In the ensuing chaos the two were seperated and Rupmati got left behind. Rather than become Akbar's captive Rupmati poisoned herself.

Best time to visit- at sunset or on a moonlit night. Rewa Kund was a reservoir built to provide her palace water. It's a sacred spot.

WHERE TO SHOP

You wont have a very good time shopping out here. Better go for trekking instead of shopping.

GENERAL INFORMATION

With persistence, you can make STD calls from the telegraph office just off the village square.

There is nowhere to change money; the nearest bank is in Indore

Best Time: July to March