Romancing the Stone

The erotic love temples of Khaujuraho have depicted the game of love in the most aesthetic yet highly sensuous form, in those life size sculptures. No vulgar public display this- instead each statute transfixes the viewer with its eye for detail and artistic perfection. The builders of these temples, the mighty Chandelas, didn't commission them as an overt display of erotic naughtiness- to give people cheap thrills- rather the sculptures celebrate the length and breadth of a relationship between a man and woman in all its warmth and sensuous frankness.

Love in the times of the Chandelas was a celebration of the highest form of physical, mental and spiritual unity between the two partners. Look at the sculptures and marvel at the depiction of a woman's moods, sensual, playful, vain, and vivacious. These are no pornographic visuals, but an understanding of the Hindu theory that when all the senses are allowed to give rein to their feelings, there is a total union physically and mentally arrived at through love making

The annual Khajuraho Dance Festival is a huge draw in March- with a choice of top-flight classical dancers and musicians (Indian) performing with the sculptures as a backdrop.

By Air:

Indian Airlines has daily flights from Delhi (via Agra) and Varanasi. Flights are also operated to Gwalior from Delhi, Bhopal, Indore, Mumbai, Jabalpur and Raipur.
The local airport is 5km south of the main square of Khajuraho town. Airlines' coaches are available for transport to major hotels. A cab charges Rs70 to the main square of the town.

By Rail:

The Mahoba (64 km) and Harpalpur (94 km). Jhansi (175 km) and Satna (117 km) are convenient railheads for visitors from Delhi, Mumbai, Calcutta, Chennai, Agra & Varanasi.

By Road:

There are also good roads connecting Khajuraho with Mumbai (1252 km) Delhi (594 kms) Chennai (1931 km), and Jaipur (628 km). Khajuraho is connected by regular bus services with Mahoba, Harpalpur, Satna, Jhansi, Gwalior, Agra, Jabalpur & Bhopal. Most luxury buses, including the one that meets the Shatabdi Express at Jhansi on its way from Delhi via Agra to Gwalior, arrive next to Raja Cafe on the main square, while local buses terminate less than 1km southeast at the bus stand, within walking distance of most central hotels.

GETTING AROUND

Khajuraho is no more than an overgrown cluster of villages, without public transport, and visitors are dependent on the various rented vehicles in competition with each other.
Taxis and rental cars are available at the main square; some of the operators are:
Sanjay Jain of the Hotel Jain (Tel: 2052)
Khajuraho Tours (Tel: 2033) in the Maqbara building,
Travel Bureau (Tel: 2037) on Jain Temples Road, near the square.

Typical costs are Rs250 for half a day, and Rs300 plus Rs4.50 per km for longer journeys.
Trips to the Eastern or Southern groups from town work out around Rs30 in a cycle Rickshaw.
With virtually empty roads, cycling is by farthe most enjoyable way for around Rs20 per day.

WHERE TO SHACK-UP

If You Wanna' Blow Dough

Taj Chandela (Tel: 2054 2101/2110)
Khajuraho's grandest address, with every amenity and all the hallmarks of the Taj Group, including a marble foyer and chandeliers.
Non-residents can use the pool for Rs150. Puppet shows are held in the evenings. Rs1200-2200.

Clarks Bundela, Airport Rd (Tel: 2365)
Posh new hotel with all mod cons and a large pool. Pay in dollars. Rs1200-2200.

Jass Oberoi, By-Pass Rd (Tel: 2085
Elegant but pleasantly understated top-of-the-range place, with tennis courts, swimming pool and a good restaurant. Rs1200-2200 and up.

Khajuraho Ashok, Airport Rd (Tel: 2024)
Long-established comfortable hotel, due to be totally refurbished. Carpeted en-suite rooms look over a swimming pool (non-residents Rs100) to the spires of the Western Group. The helpful staff can arrange itineraries and car rental. Rs1200-2200.

If You Wanna' Live Sensibly:

Gem, Jain Temples Rd (Tel: 2100)
Clean and homely, like its neighbours, but without a garden. Rs225-350.

Harmony, Jain Temples Rd (Tel: 2135)
Neat and clean, with a restaurant. Ask for a room facing the small garden.Rs350-500. MPTDC Jhankar, near the Oberoi (Tel: 2063) The best of the MPTDC options; clean with a good restaurant but otherwise plain. Rs350-750.

MPTDC Payal (Tel: 2076)
Typical, rather charmless mid-range government place; but the rooms are spacious and quiet. The Camp Ground alongside can be booked through reception. Rs350-750.

If You're Really Smart:

Jain, Jain Temples Rd (Tel: 2052)
Close to the heart of Khajuraho, near the Harmony. Reasonable air-cooled rooms, good value singles, and good veg food. Rs100-150.

Lakeside, opposite Shivasagar Lake (Tel: 2120) Assorted rooms not far from the main square, including a dorm. Popular with Japanese tourists. Rs150-500.

MPTDC Rahil (Tel: 2062)
More government-run accommodation, once again soulless but in a leafy spot. Offers a dorm (Rs40) and a canteen-like restaurant. Rs150-225.

MPTDC Tourist Village (Tel: 2128)
Modern mud huts spread across a few acres in imitation of a small village; the mock-rustic restaurant is also in a hut. Rs150-225.

Sunset View, opposite Pahil Batika (Tel: 2077)
Quite ordinary, with a dorm and budget accommodation as well as more expensive A/c rooms. Rs100-350.

Surya, Jain Temple Rd (Tel: 2145)
Clean, good-value place around a verdant courtyard; does not give commissions to rickshaws. Rs150-350.

Yogi Lodge (Tel: 2158)
Behind the Raja Cafe, near the Western Group. Excellent-value budget accommodation with a small courtyard. Similar lodges on either side include Vikram, Marco Polo and Natraj. Up to Rs100-350.

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK

Khajuraho is surprisingly good for food. It even has an exciting Italian place among its well-priced restaurants and cafes.
The budget choices are not bad, and a cold beer never too far away, while the top hotels all provide reasonable to excellent eating.

Assi, Jain Temples Rd. Small, simple and cosy, with no-nonsense Indian food.

Jass Oberoi, By-Pass Rd (Tel: 2085).
Comfortably stylish multi-cuisine restaurant in luxury hotel; works out as good value when paid for in foreign currency. Highly recommended.

Lake View Cafe, Airport Rd, Shivsagar. Disappointing food, but good views of the lake.

Lovely Restaurant, near the Western Group gates, Main Square. Reasonable Sikh-run dhaba.

Mediterraneo Ristorante Italiano, Jain Temple Rd. Excellent cafe with a pleasant roof terrace, run by an Indian-Italian couple. Fresh pasta makes a welcome change - but you'll miss the wine.

Raja Cafe, Main Square. Where it all happens in Khajuraho. The food might not be all that special, but you can pick up guides, information, and cold beers, and there's a bookstore and curio shop.

Shree Punjabi, Main square. Sociable rooftop seating; filling Punjabi meals, and beer.

Safari, Jain Temple Rd. Popular among travellers, serving chicken and chips and salads.

THINGS TO DO

. The Love Temples - The core attraction of Khajuraho, the love temples have drawn visitors from home and abroad to marvel at such a frank depiction of some of the most private moments between a man and woman in the game of love/love-making. There have been those who have taken the visuals before them at face value- giggled and pointed and gone away with a few laughs and fresh anecdotes to regale friends with. There are others who have seen the beauty and the aesthetic depiction of such a sensitive subject. Whichever group you may belong to- be assured Khajuraho's temples will certainly touch you.

It's a bit much to take in all the temples at on go- best to space it out over a couple of days. Pick up a booklet to follow what's what at the Western Group gateway. It's worth investing in a good guide.

The Western Group and there Eastern group are best. The 85 temples (creative record of almost a century dating from 950- 1050 AD) commissioned by the Chandelas were supposed to have attained the highest form of perfection in temple architecture. Luckily their remoteness protected them from the avarice and religious zeal of the Muslim warriors. The temples were rediscovered by the British.

You'll enter the temple through a porch (ardhamandapa) then go into the Mahamandapa (hall) hoisted on carved pillars, and surrounded by a corridor. You enter the inner sanctum via a vestibule. Check out The Early Lakshmana, You'll see visuals of soldiers on campaign, partying with apsaras on coming home. The women in varying states of getting ready for a bath, drying their hair, checking out the mirror, acting coy, making love. Move on next to Kandariaya Mahadev (the largest and tallest temple) dedicated to lord Shiva which has a marble Linga in the inner sanctum. It has over 800 statues of gods, goddesses, musicians and erotic visuals on both the internal and external surfaces.

These are some of the most sublime depictions of architecture and sculpture.

The temples are open from dawn to dusk.

Where to Shop

Shops near the temples sell local handicrafts and other souvenirs. There are quite a few other handicraft shops in the market opposite to the Western group of temples and the nearby Gole market.
The hotels, Chandela, Jass Oberoi, Holiday Inn, Clarks Bundela and Ashok also have shopping arcades.
Photo shops are also located here and cameras are available on hire.

GENERAL INFRORMATION

STD code 07886
Indian Airlines Tel: 2035

The Government of India Tourist office (Mon-Fri 9am-5.30pm, Sat 8am-noon)
Opp western group of temples
Khajuraho,
Madhya Pradesha.
Tel: 42347 / 42348

Tourist office - MPSTDC
Tourist Bungalow Complex
Madhya Pradesh
Tel: 2051
Tourist Village
Chandella Cultural Centre
Tel: 2051 / 2221

Money Matters:

Canara Bank - Bus Stand
State Bank Of India - Maqbara Building

Medical Matters:
There are dispensaries equipped with all medical facilities in khajuraho, Chattarpur and Nowgong.

Khajuraho

Romancing the Stone

The erotic love temples of Khaujuraho have depicted the game of love in the most aesthetic yet highly sensuous form, in those life size sculptures. No vulgar public display this- instead each statute transfixes the viewer with its eye for detail and artistic perfection. The builders of these temples, the mighty Chandelas, didn't commission them as an overt display of erotic naughtiness- to give people cheap thrills- rather the sculptures celebrate the length and breadth of a relationship between a man and woman in all its warmth and sensuous frankness.

Love in the times of the Chandelas was a celebration of the highest form of physical, mental and spiritual unity between the two partners. Look at the sculptures and marvel at the depiction of a woman's moods, sensual, playful, vain, and vivacious. These are no pornographic visuals, but an understanding of the Hindu theory that when all the senses are allowed to give rein to their feelings, there is a total union physically and mentally arrived at through love making

The annual Khajuraho Dance Festival is a huge draw in March- with a choice of top-flight classical dancers and musicians (Indian) performing with the sculptures as a backdrop.

THINGS TO DO

The Love Temples- The core attraction of Khajuraho, the love temples have drawn visitors from home and abroad to marvel at such a frank depiction of some of the most private moments between a man and woman in the game of love/love-making. There have been those who have taken the visuals before them at face value- giggled and pointed and gone away with a few laughs and fresh anecdotes to regale friends with. There are others who have seen the beauty and the aesthetic depiction of such a sensitive subject. Whichever group you may belong to- be assured Khajuraho's temples will certainly touch you.

It's a bit much to take in all the temples at on go- best to space it out over a couple of days. Pick up a booklet to follow what's what at the Western Group gateway. It's worth investing in a good guide.

The Western Group and there Eastern group are best. The 85 temples (creative record of almost a century dating from 950- 1050 AD) commissioned by the Chandelas were supposed to have attained the highest form of perfection in temple architecture. Luckily their remoteness protected them from the avarice and religious zeal of the Muslim warriors. The temples were rediscovered by the British.

You'll enter the temple through a porch (ardhamandapa) then go into the Mahamandapa (hall) hoisted on carved pillars, and surrounded by a corridor. You enter the inner sanctum via a vestibule. Check out The Early Lakshmana, You'll see visuals of soldiers on campaign, partying with apsaras on coming home. The women in varying states of getting ready for a bath, drying their hair, checking out the mirror, acting coy, making love. Move on next to Kandariaya Mahadev (the largest and tallest temple) dedicated to lord Shiva which has a marble Linga in the inner sanctum. It has over 800 statues of gods, goddesses, musicians and erotic visuals on both the internal and external surfaces.

These are some of the most sublime depictions of architecture and sculpture.

The temples are open from dawn to dusk.