The romance of the desert creeps upon you with quiet ease in this remote little desert habitation in the westernmost extremity of Rajasthan. Ornamented with a delightful fort is sunshine-coloured sandstone, and havelis embellished with ethereal carvings, the little township adds a dash of liveliness to the arid reaches of the surrounding Thar desert. It's not just the fort itself that acts as a dramatic foil to this these sandy wastelands, the men and women with their colourful clothes and music and fiery cuisine more than make for this harsh retreat of nature. Jaislamer , which lies on the old trade routes, is the perfect holiday breakaway for the intrepid visitor who wants to cut across the relatively bland barriers of the tour of the tourist towns of the Golden Triangle of Delhi, Agra and Jaipur.

HOW TO GET THERE

By Air

The airport is 8km west of town.

List Of Airlines
Alliance Air

By Rail
Jaisalmer's only rail connection is to Jodhpur, more than 250km east. All other long-distance trips involve tedious bus journeys. If you've inherited a fortune from some long- lost relative, splurge on a trip on the luxurious Palace on Wheels train which does the route in winter.

By Road
The RSRTC bus stand, (as you turn the corner from the station, has departures for Jaipur, Jodhpur, Bikaner, Barmer, Mount Abu and Ahmedabad. "Deluxe" private buses are the best options, and leave from the crossroads just outside Amar Sagar Gate, where you'll find the booking offices. There are buses from here to Jodhpur (18 daily; 6hr), Bikaner (4 daily; 7hr 30min) and one or two daily to Jaipur (14hr), Delhi (20hr), Bombay (30hr), Ajmer (12hr 30min), Pushkar (13hr) and Udaipur (14hr). Frequent but much slower local buses, which can't be booked, use the stand a little northeast of the crossroads. They include three daily to Khuhri (1hr 30min).

By Sea
The only ships to be found here are the ships of the desert.

GETTING AROUND

The auto guy here is a shrewd chap in this tourist city. Bargain like mad. Cycles to hire are the perfect for wheeling around the tiny lanes and bazaars here. If you're lost -the place is tiny enough for you to eventually get back to where you once belonged. Just keep in mind that the main road encircles the fort base from the main market square (Gopa Chowk)- east to Gadi Sagar tank and West to Gandhi Chowk.

WHERE TO CRASH

(From Tents To 5-Stars)

If You Wanna' Blow Dough:

Jaisal Castle, in the southern corner of the fort (52362; fax 52101). Old haveli with great views but overpriced and not that clean. Noon checkout; full board available. Rs500-2200.
Jawahar Niwas Palace, Amar Sagar Rd (52208; fax 52259). Old palace less than 1km west of town with grand but musty rooms.Trad. Indian welcome with garlands and a welcome drink will cost you Rs.100 extra. Veg and non-veg restaurant; full board available. Rs1200-2200.
Narayan Niwas Palace, Malkaprol Rd (52408; fax 52101). On the northern edge of town with a large grass courtyard and pleasant bar. Overpriced a/c rooms are clean but unimaginative and often without outside windows; again, it's Rs100 extra for your "welcome drinks and garland". Rs1200-2200.

If You Wanna' Live Sensibly:

Shreenath Palace, near the Jain temples (52907). Small stylish family home in an old haveli with large rooms and a small roof terrace with nice view. Very basic shared toilet facilities. Rs225-350. Suraj, near Shreenath (53023). Superbly carved sandstone haveli with real style. Five spacious, comfortable rooms all with hot shower and some with original wall paintings, in family atmosphere.
Excellent rooftop view. Rs225-350.
Jaisal Palace, behind Royal Palace (52717). Clean modern hotel, a bit sterile. Large roof area.
Rs225-350.
Narayan Vilas, Malkaprol Rd (52283). Old haveli next to the Narayan Niwas. Comfortable and clean.
Rs350-500.

If You're Really Smart:

Deepak Rest House, in the west of the fort (52665; fax 52070). Small and friendly, with basic rooms (one with balcony), dorm, and roof terrace. "Off the beaten track" camel treks. Up to Rs100-350.
Laxmi Niwas, north of the Jain temples (52758). Small, basic and clean, with beds and mattresses on the floor, shared bathrooms and tiny roof terrace. The annexe has more facilities, but dull rooms. Up to Rs100-500.
City View, off Gopa Chowk (52804). Next door to the Fort View, with small but clean rooms; the larger ones take 3 or 4 people. Up to Rs100.
Fort View, off Gopa Chowk (52214). Large and reasonably clean, with a view of the fort, oddly enough, from the roof terrace. Some triple rooms; discounts to readers carrying The Rough Guide to India. Up to Rs100.
Grand View, off Central Mkt (52533). One of the most basic, but with great hot showers. Up to Rs100. Sandrella, off Shiv Marg (no phone). Homely budget place in the shadow of the fort. Rooms are basic but clean with attached bathroom. Up to Rs100.
Swastika, Chainpura (52152). An old favourite still going strong; cheap, clean and cosy with free morning tea and hot showers. Great view from roof; dorm available. Discount of 40 percent March-June, 20 percent July-Sept. Up to Rs100-225.

IMPORTANT CONTACTS

Tourist office (Mon-Sat 8am-6pm; Tel. 52406), near Gadi Sagar Pole. Bit out of the way. A good alternative for tourist info is the Thar Safari ( Tel. 52722) in Gandhi Chowk . Time tables, camel safari info, places to stay- they handle it all. Need to use the postoffice ? The one near the huge banyan tree in Gopa Chowk is more conveniently located.
Rajasthan Tourism Development Corporation Ltd. (RTDC) - Tourist Information Bureau, Hotel Moomal, Jaisalmer 345 001 (Rajasthan) India Tel. - +(91)-2992-52392
STD Code 02992

Money Matters

Banks:

Most of them are concentrated on Gandhi Chowk.
Bank of Baroda: (Mon-Fri 11am-3pm, Sat 11am-1pm) changes money and torn notes.
State Bank of Bikaner and Jaipur

Medical Matters:

If you're unlucky enough to fall ill here, only the greatest doctor of all times can help you - GOD. (So take all the medicines and repellents that you can manage.)

THINGS TO DO

For the high energy crowd
If you're visiting Jaisalmer and don't do a camel safari- friends back home- nay- even your hotel chaps in the city are going to give you very odd looks. Looking for adventure? This is it man. Find the nearest camel safari outfit - and git !
The safari gives you a fabulous opportunity to explore these remote desert areas in a manner you never visualised in your remotest dreams. The living reality of the desert sands brings home the romance and colour of Rajasthan in full force-It is also a slightly chastening experience as it reminds you of the tough lessons of survival learned by the desert folk. Yet the desert folk compensate their lives of hardship on these rolling desert tracts, by the extravagant mosaic of colour and music in all its legendary richness and variety. Don't let the thought of chafed butts and thighs, after days in the saddle, hamper your enthusiasm

October to February is the best time to heat the safari trail. Costs for these can vary according to the number of the group, the kind of amenities you can afford (luxury or basic) and the duration of the safari. Remember the tighter your budget- the less you get. If you get a good guide, the trip can be wonderful- If you get surly guide- watch your expectation level. Freelance camel owners, though sometimes cheaper, may not be able to really deliver, (Maybe your silver tongue works a miracle). You're best bet to book through an agency. It's best to book your safari in Jaisalmer itself, after making an assessment of what you want. Don't get carried away by the numerous touts who'll be all over you as the train lurches into the station.
One of the oldest and most reputed in the city- Thar Safari (Tel52722 fax 53214) in Gandhi Chowk . There's a slew of safaris to choose from. Most of these come with tents and guides. With at least 10 days notice you can avail of a trek Jaisalmer from Pokharan. They also make an attempt to make their trips eco-friendly. Cheaper options? Try Sahara Travels , Gopa Chowk (Tel. 52609). Paradise Hotel also arranges treks.
If you want to get a real feel of the desert, don't settle for something tame- head out instead for the desert village of KHUHRI, which is just 1km short of the dunes. You can get there by bus - there are three daily buses (1hr 30min) from the local bus stand in Jaisalmer and start the actual safari from this point. Safaris are organized by the two basic guest houses (though you may need permits from the district Magistrate's Office in Jaisalmer). Mama's Guest House (no phone; Rs100-150 full board) is the older of the two, offering tasty home cooking, and is now marginally undercut by a newcomer, the Khuhri Guest House (no phone; up to Rs100). Make sure you're provided enough blankets and even a camp fire- it can get very chilly on the desert at night.
Government rules have created fixed routes for safaris which head out for the Sam dune desert camp,Amar Sagar, Bada Bagh, Lodurva and a clutch of small desert hamlets.

For the more sedate

Jaisalmer Fort

In comparison to the desert safari a perambulation of the marvellous Jaislamer Fort may appear somewhat sedate. This Fort- both inside and out is made of made of soft yellow sandstone. The solid structure of the fort is still home to ¼ of the town's population. Any additional construction is strictly prohibited here. The road winding up to the fortification has four gateways, which are embellished with their own tales of gore and glory.

At the second gateway, the notorious "death well" became the final resting-place of many a traitor and criminal (Just watch out for floating skeletons). The fourth gateway leads into Main Chowk- a heady riot of colour and music on festive occasions festive celebrations, was once the centrifugal point of scenes as diverse as the gathering of marching troops armies, marriage parties and that most terrible of Rajput customs the johar or sati.

The Palace of the Maharawal , standing centre stage in the chowk (daily 10am-3pm), is embellished with some of the most delicate and detailed masonry work in the city.

Desert Festival In January or February, the Desert Festival arranged by RTDC features camel racing, dances, music, puppet shows and moustache competitions. With it prices in the city sky rocket- from your hotel room to your auto fare. Check for details at: Rajasthan Tourism, Government Hostel Building, Jaipur (0141/376362), the Deputy General Manager, Rajasthan Tourism, Bikaner House, Pandara Rd, New Delhi (011/383837), or the tourist office in Jaisalmer.

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK

Don't be surprised at the mix of food available in this remote desert city. With the ferenghi tourists descending upon it in droves- you'll find anything from Mom's Apple Pie to pizza. In the meantime- check out-

8th July, in the fort. Evolved menu- includes thalis, pizza, vegeburgers, and fruit salads - no curries. Open 9.30am-3pm & 6-10pm.

Cinera, off Gopa Chowk on the roof of the Grand View Hotel. Veg food, plus eggs - nothing special, with the usual curries, thalis and Chinese. Grand fort views.

Kalpana, Gandhi Chowk. Tasty, good-value veg and non-veg Punjabi and north Indian dishes with open-air seating. Some Chinese options. Open 7am-10.30pm.

Moti Mahal, opposite Salim Singh's haveli. Small ground-floor veg restaurant for the best-value tourist breakfasts in town. Some tables face the street from the front verandah. Open 8am-10pm.

Natraj, facing the top floor of Salim Singh's haveli. Pleasant rooftop and indoor non-veg restaurant; the only a/c place in town. The food is of a high standard and moderately priced. Open 8am-11pm.

Sharma Lodge, Gandhi Chowk. Very cheap hole in the wall by Thar Safari for excellent chai and basic thalis. Open 7am-10.30pm.

Shree Bikaner, just north of the private bus stand. Popular place for veg specialities from all over India. Open 8.30am-10.30pm.

Trio, Gandhi Chowk. Sumptuous Mughlai food, tasteful decor, snappy service and live folk music make this a wonderful place to dine; excellent value for its price range. The safari soup is, as the menu claims, memorable. Open 7.30am-10pm, meals noon-3pm & 6.30-10pm.

Vyas Meals, in the fort by the handicraft shops on the way to the Jain temples. Small, unpretentious place doing home-style veg thalis and snacks. Open 10am-10pm.

Where to Blow Your Money (What's Left Of It)