Shadows of Antiquity

Nothing quite prepares you for the first stunning visual of the imposing ramparts of the Gwalior Fort. Rearing above the sweltering, dusty city it catches you by the collar and takes you away into another world peopled by autocratic kings, heroic soldiers and warrior queens who dared to question the might of the Gwalior ruler. Slip into another persona as the guide takes you through the corridors of history.

According to legend, way back in 8 AD a hermit saint, by the name of Gwalipa , cured the chieftain of this region, Suraj Sen of leprosy. In gratitude the chieftain named his kingdom after the hermit. Most people have always linked the history of this city to the Scindia and his descendants and this little legend has kinda sat on the backburner.

The dramatic history of this splendid fort goes back a thousand years. Power players here included the famous Tomar dynasty (plenty of intrigues and battles with the neighbouring powers). Raja Man Singh who came to the throne in 1486 was one of Gwalior's most powerful rulers. He lost the fort to the Lodhis who then lost it to the Mughals. Though it eventually came into the hands of the Scindias , the British retained indirect control. The Fort saw some volatile action at the time of the Indian Mutiny, which saw the likes of Tantia Tope and Rani Lakshmi Bai of Jhansi assault the might of the Gwalior kings. Though the famous warrior queen lost her life in the battlefield- her courage in taking on the Scindias is legendary.

Bet you DON'T KNOW:
Local legend,attributes the founding of the fort to the Kuchwaha prince Suraj Sen, said to have been cured of leprosy during the tenth century by the hermit Gwalipa after whom the city is named.

HOW TO REACH
Air :
India Airlines flights connect Gwalior with Delhi, Bhopal, Indore and Mumbai thrice a week.

Rail :
Gwalior is on the Central Railway's main Delhi-Mumbai and Delhi-Chennai lines. Among other major trains, the Shatabdi and the Taj Express connect Gwalior with Delhi and Agra daily.

Road :
Gwalior is connected by regular bus service with Agra, Mathura, Jaipur, Delhi, Chandigarh, Lucknow, Bhopal, Chanderi, Indore, Jhansi, Khajuraho, Rewa, Jabalpur, Ujjain and Shivpuri

GETTING AROUND
Local transportation includes Taxis, Tempos Buses and Auto Rickshaws.

WHERE TO SHACK UP
If you wanna blow dough:

Regency,
near bus stand (340671).
Modern and ritzy, with Star TV, foreign exchange, health club (with jacuzzi) and a pool.
Cost:Rs500-2200.
Ushan Kiran Palace,
Jayendraganj, Lakshar (323213).

Former Maharaja's guest house now run by Welcomgroup as an opulent 5-star. Period furnishings, large verandahs, and a lawn with wicker chairs preserve some of its original fin de siècle feel.
Cost:Rs1200-2200 and up

If you wanna live sensibly':

Banjara,
High Court Lane (321637).
Smart hotel next to Man Mandir; good restaurant.
Cost:Rs225-750.
MPTDC Tansen,
6-A Gandhi Rd (340370).
Large, efficient hotel in its own gardens near the station, with spacious rooms (some a/c) and a good restaurant. Popular with business travellers, so advance booking is recommended.
Cost:Rs350-750.

Park View,
near Rani Jhansi memorial, Phool Bagh Gate, MLB Rd (21323).
In a dingy basement but clean enough. Some a/c rooms.
Cost:Rs225-500.

Fort View,
MLB Rd (331586).
Plain but comfortable and well managed, with light rooms, Star TV and some a/c. "Regular" rooms are particularly good value.
Cost:Rs150-750.

If you wanna be real smart:

Ambika,
Tansen Rd, Padav (326172).
Reasonably clean budget hotel fifteen minutes' walk from the train station. The rooms at the back escape the noise from the flyover.
Cost:Rs150-225

Bhagwati,
Anturam Shivari Chowk, Nai Sarak (327428).
Basic, but best of the budget bunch if you want to be near the bazaar. Rock-bottom rates, and fort views from some rooms.
Cost:Up to Rs100.

India,
Station Rd (24983).
No-frills lodge run by Indian Coffee Workers' Co-op; clean, but noisy rooms overlooking main street. Deluxe rate gets you a Western toilet. Handy for the station.
Cost:Rs150-225.

Man Mandir,
High Court Lane (321442).
Small, friendly, well maintained, and good value, but hard to find. A rickshaw ride from the station. Cost:Rs100-150.

Safari,
Railway Station Market (340638).
Identical to India, only marginally cheaper and with a more recent lick of paint.
Cost:Rs150-225.

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK

Banjara,
High Court Lane.
A good range of mainly Indian dishes, imaginative daily specials, and efficient service. Western and south Indian breakfasts.
Indian Coffee House, Station Rd.
Delicious dosas and other south Indian snacks, plain or with "special" nut and veg fillings. Opens 7.30am for breakfast - iddlis and eggs.

Tansen,
Gandhi Rd.
Run-of-the-mill menu includes several tandoori and vegetarian options at moderate prices, with some milder chow meins and chop sueys.

Ushan Kiran,
Jayendraganj.
Modest selection of (expensive) gourmet Indian and Western food, with lots of mouthwatering Mughlai-style dishes. The buffet lunches are good for a splurge

THINGS TO DO

The Fort is host to a number of interesting monuments, ruined palaces and temples. Check out the Man Mandir Palace- a massive music hall, once the scene of many colourful evenings in the reign of Raja Man Singh. It's one of the most impressive buildings within the Fort, being richly festooned with blue, green and yellow mosaics creating motifs of birds, animals and flowers; the finely carved screens cut out of stone cut off the women from the musicians from whom they were taking music lessons. Pretty purdahs…Don't miss the fabulous Sound and Light Shows at the Fort -- the venue is spectacular and the show one of the best in the country. They have a Hindi version and English one. Different timings of course.

There's a clutch of temples within the Forts precincts. Most famous - Teli Ka Mandir, built for honeymooning couples with erotic sculptures instructing young brides the art of pleasing their spouses, and Sas Bahu Ka Mandir-the mother-in-law/daughter-in-law temple.

The Jai Vilas Palace, in the new town is home of the Scindias. Most of it is a museum though Madhav Rao Scindia still has quarters here. Check out the two famous glass chandeliers in the Durbar Hall, supposed to be the largest in the world. It is said three elephants were hoisted up to the roof to ensure that it could bear the strain. There's also a silver train that chugs its way around the dining table dispensing anything from tikkas to cigars to the Maharaja's guests. Raja Madhav Rao Scindia was as well known for his schoolboy pranks and great accuracy in water pistol attacks, as for his enthusiastic modernisation of his state. He also organised some of the most elaborate tiger shoots- for the Brits during the Raj.

WHERE TO SHOP
There are lots of place to shop here, go check out the main markets for yourself.

GENERAL INFORMATION STD CODE
0751
MPTDC have a helpful information counter at their Hotel Tansen (34370 or 342606), ten minutes' walk southeast of the train station on Gandhi Rd.

If you need to change money, and are not staying in a hotel with a foreign exchange facility, the State Bank of India (Mon-Fri 10am-2pm, Sat 10am-noon) is at the heart of the bazaar district, on Jayaji Chowk, near the GPO.