MAHABALIPURAM

The sculptural extravaganza

A heady mix of culture, history and the ocean, Mahabalipuram (also Mamallapuram) is famous for its ancient temples and exquisite stone sculptures. No wonder then, that it’s known as a temple city. You can experience the rare and the uncommon here. And if you love the sea, this is the destination of your dreams.

Also known as Mamallapuram (in ancient times), it’s just 60 km from Chennai on the Bay of Bengal coast in the southern Indian state of Tamil Nadu.

Mahabalipuram is one of history’s intriguing enigmas. The ancient Mamallapuram was a flourishing port town of the Pallava rulers of South India. They chiseled in stone a fabulous “open-air museum” of sculpture under the vault of a burning sky—in other words the town of Mamallapuram. The reason behind this extravaganza and more importantly the reason as to why all the royal patronage this place enjoyed suddenly disappeared remains a mystery. .

HOW TO REACH

By air
The nearest airport from Mahabalipuram is Chennai, located around 60 km away. You can get flights to almost all major destinations in India and abroad from Chennai.

By rail
The nearest railway station, Chengalpattu, is around 29 km away from Mahabalipuram. Trains for Chennai and several other major cities in South India are available from here.

By road
Mahabalipuram is connected by road to Chennai, Tirukkalikundram (Pakshithirtham), Kanchipuram (65 km), and Pondicherry.

You can hire tourist taxis from Madras to Kanchipuram and then to Mamallapuram.

GETTING AROUND

Mahabalipuram is not a not a big town. By far the best way to get to the important sites, if you're up to it, is by two wheelers (riding an Enfield motorbike is the way to do it!), which can be rented easily through many of the hotels for about Rs150-300 a day. Cycling is an option if the weather permits, though taxi’s and cycle rickshawsare also available for local transport .

WHERE TO SHACK UP
.
If u wanna blow dough!

If you want to blow dough, the best option is to check into one of the several beach resorts spread across the town. However you should make prior reservations

Taj Fisherman's Cove
Covelong Beach
30min drive north from Mahabalipuram
Tel. 04128-2304
Room charges start from Rs2200

Temple Bay
Ashok (ITDC) Beach Resort
Tel. 42251
Fax: 42257
Rooms range from Rs1200 to Rs2200.

Ideal Beach Resort
Located 3 km from town,
Tel. 42240
Fax. 42243
Rooms range from Rs1000 to Rs1100
Air-conditioned cottages start from Rs.1300.

If u wanna live sensibly:

Mamalla Bhavan Annexe
104 East Raja Street.
Tel. 42260
Doubles with bath start at Rs.300,
Air-conditioned rooms at Rs.525 and,
Deluxe rooms at Rs.650

Hotel Veeras
East Raja Street
Near Mamalla Bhavan Annexe
Tel. 42288

They have comfortable doubles for Rs.350 and Rs.550 to Rs.650 for air-conditioner and fridge.

La Vie en Rose
Tel. 42068
Rooms range from Rs.350 to Rs550.

TTDC Hotel Tamilnadu
Near the Shore Temple
Tel. 42287
The cost of double cottages with bath and fan, ranges from Rs.300 to Rs.500.

IF you’re really smart:

Lakshmi Lodge
Tel. 42463
The cost of airy rooms with fans ranges from Rs120 to Rs300.

Tina Blue View Lodge & Restaurant
Tel. 42319
Single/double rooms with bathroom, ranging from Rs.100 to Rs.250.

Uma Lodge
15, Othavadai Street
Tel. 42322
The clean double rooms from Rs100 to Rs150, larger rooms with toilets from Rs200 to Rs300.

THINGS TO LOOK OUT FOR
In Mahabalipuram
Mahabalipuram is a paradise carved out of stone. There are so many sites, which you can just keep gazing at in awe, and get blown away by the mesmerizing detail and exquisite workmanship.

The Varaha Cave, a small rock-cut mandapam (hall), is a gem with four panels of the famous Pallava doorkeepers who wear an expression of “pious rapture,” as Heinrich Zimmer, a leading expert on Mahabalipuram put it. There is a certain mood of contemplative reverie, a lyrical softness and subtle grace here.

Visit Mahishamardini and enjoy the feeble sunlight glimmering on panels of enduring beauty at the Mahishamardini Cave. The Somaskanda sculpture radiates peace, power and wisdom while Lord Vishnu in omniscient repose, is a masterpiece of dhwani (the art of suggestion) perfected by the Pallava sculptor.

Next check out the Arjuna’s Penance, perhaps the world’s largest bas-relief. It is said to be the universe itself in stone, throbbing with a vastness of conception. The legend goes that King Bhagiratha had to bring down to earth the celestial Ganga to purify and redeem the cursed souls of his ancestors. But the river in its torrential plunge would have flooded the earth. So he had to undergo a penance to propitiate Shiva who finally received the flood in his matted locks and let it trickle down. This was a sight for the world’s creatures to see and they gathered round. The cleft in the rock depicts this descent of the Ganges.

The five Rathas (chariots) are architectural precursors of the temples of South India. The smallest and the simplest is the Draupadi ratha and the largest is the multi-storied Dharmaraja ratha scoped from a monolithic rock. These small shrines, though unfinished and ravaged by war and the elements, are just amazing. Their beauty hasn’t diminished one bit.

But what makes Mahabalipuram famous is the spellbinding Shore Temple. A three-in-one abode of god—a Vishnu temple sandwiched between two Shiva temples, is simply a visual delight. You’ll also find various architectural masterpieces in its surroundings.

You could also check out the Sculpture Museum in East Raja Street. It contains more than 3,000 sculptures by the local artisans, made of wood, metal, brass, and cement.

Sites Nearby
Move just 5 km north of Mahabalipuram and you reach the Tiger Caves. Its a rock-cut shrine, possibly dating back to the 7th century, and is quite interesting.

Around 14 km from Mahabalipuram is Tirukkalikundram, a pilgrimage center. The place has a hilltop temple dedicated to Lord Shiva.

Get wet
If you dig water sports or are enthralled by culture, then check out Muttukadu, 21 km from Mamallapuram. The Tamil Nadu Tourism Development Corporation (TTDC) has a boathouse here and it’s an ideal place for water sports. You can indulge in boating, canoeing, kayaking, and windsurfingr here. And the non-watery kinds can check out the replicas of an old agricultural house of Tamil Nadu, a replica of Kanchipuram weavers house and other replicas of ancient houses presenting the lifestyle of South India.

Fairs and Festivals
Mahabalipuram Dance Festival, celebrated in the month of January/February every year, is an occasion for culture vultures to enjoy performances by artists from all over the country. The festival, with the Shore temple as its backdrop, builds up an excellent ambience with the music from the performances mingling with the natural music of the wind, the surf and the sea. So, if you can manage to, definitely try and visit Mahabalipuram during the festival. Who knows? You might get an education!

Also around the same time, in mid January, comes Pongal. The most important festival in Tamil Nadu, it’s celebrated with a lot of fan and fare.

Other festivals like the Sthalasayana Perumal temple festivals, Masimagam and Brahmothsavam, are held in the month of March.

WHERE TO SHOP

Mahabalipuram is an ideal place for all you collectors and in case you are not a collector then a vacation here is sure to turn you into one.

Mahabalipuram has kept alive, and to a great extent revived, the ancient art of the stonemason and the sculptor. The sculptors here receive contracts from all over India and abroad to supply sculptures of various kinds. These images include deities for temples and other forms for restoration works.

If you’re looking for images and statues to take home as gifts, you’ll find these at several handicraft emporia scattered around the city. You can opt for some marvelously carved images of Hindu gods offered in the shops. These carvings may be in soap stone or on wood.

Jewelry and other items are also available. You also get decorative items made of seashells.

GENERAL INFORMATION

STD code 04114
There are many STD/ISD booths near most of the monuments. Internet facilities are also available.

Money matters
You can change foreign currency and traveler’s cheque at Indian Overseas Bank on Tirukkalikundram Road.

Medical
Government Primary Health Center
Near Township Office

Tourist information
The Tourist office
East Raja Street
Tel. 42232

Department of Tourism, Government of India
154, Anna Salai
Chennai,
Tel. 044-8524785 / 8524295 / 8522193;
Fax: 044-8522193

Tamil Nadu Tourism Development Corporation (TTDC),
143, Anna Salai,
Chennai,
Tel. 044-830498 /830390

The essentials
Languages Tamil & English
Best time to visit October to March

The climate is hot and sultry throughout the year with a maximum temperature of 35°C and a minimum of 19°C. The best time to visit this place is during October to March. And you must surely avoid the monsoon period coz it really pours down here.

Plan your next vacation here; the sea, its vastness, the rocks and the ancient sculptures make a deadly combination. It’s a place sure to take your breath away